,P>T #a3 ,*ILDHOOD1 ,SECTION #a 

#ahiiahii 

,PEOPLE 3 

,AU?OR 3 ,PET] ,KROPOTK9 

,TEXT 3 

  

,PHOTO BY J]EMY AVNET1,C,C ,B,Y ,LIC5SE ,MOSC[ IS A CITY ( SL[ HI/ORICAL GR[?1 & D[N TO ! PRES5T TIME ITS DIFF]5T P>TS HAVE WOND]FULLY WELL RETA9$ ! FEATURES :I* HAVE BE5 /AMP$ UPON !M 9 ! SL[ C\RSE ( HI/ORY4 ,! ,TRANS-,MOSKVA ,RIV] DI/RICT1 ) ITS BROAD1 SLEEPY /REETS & ITS MONOTON\S GRAY-PA9T$1 L[-RO($ H\SES1 ( :I* ! 5TRANCE-GATES REMA9 SECURELY BOLT$ DAY & NI<T1 HAS ALWAYS BE5 ! SECLUD$ ABODE ( ! M]*ANT CLASS1 & ! /RON<OLD ( ! \TW>DLY AU/]E1 =MALI/IC1 & DESPOTIC ,NONCON=MI/S ( ! 0,OLD ,FAI?40 ,! CITADEL1 OR ,KREML1 IS /ILL ! /RON<OLD ( *UR* & /ATE2 & ! IMM5SE SPACE 9 FRONT ( IT1 COV]$ ) ?\S&S ( %OPS & W>EH\SES1 HAS BE5 = C5TURIES A CR[D$ BEEHIVE ( COMM]CE1 & /ILL REMA9S ! HE>T ( A GREAT 9T]NAL TRADE :I* SPREADS OV] ! :OLE SURFACE ( ! VA/ EMPIRE4 ,! ,TV]SKAYA & ! ,SMI?S' ,BRIDGE HAVE BE5 = HUNDR$S ( YE>S ! *IEF C5T]S = ! FA%IONABLE %OPS2 :ILE ! >TISANS' QU>T]S1 ! ,PLUS*IKHA & ! ,DOROGOMILOVKA1 RETA9 ! V]Y SAME FEATURES :I* *>ACT]IZ$ !IR UPRO>I\S POPULATIONS 9 ! TIMES ( ! ,MOSC[ ,CZ>S4 ,EA* QU>T] IS A LITTLE WORLD 9 ITSELF2 EA* HAS ITS [N PHYSIOGNOMY1 & LIVES ITS [N SEP>ATE LIFE4 ,EV5 ! RAILWAYS --- :5 !Y MADE AN IRRUPTION 9TO ! OLD CAPITAL --- GR\P$ AP>T 9 SPECIAL C5T]S ON ! \TSKIRTS ( ! OLD T[N !IR /ORES & MA*9E-WORKS1 !IR HEAVILY LOAD$ C>TS & 5G9ES4 

,H[EV]1 ( ALL P>TS ( ,MOSC[1 NONE1 P]HAPS1 IS MORE TYPICAL ?AN ?AT LABYR9? ( CLEAN1 QUIET1 W9D+ /REETS & LANES :I* LIES AT ! BACK ( ! ,KREML1 BETWE5 TWO GREAT RADIAL /REETS1 ! ,>BAT & ! ,PRE*I/5KA1 & IS /ILL CALL$ ! ,OLD ,EQU]RIES' ,QU>T]1 --- ! ,/>AYA ,KONYU%5NAYA4 

,SOME FIFTY YE>S AGO1 !RE LIV$ 9 ?IS QU>T]1 & SL[LY DI$ \T1 ! OLD ,MOSC[ NOBILITY1 :OSE NAMES W]E SO FREQU5TLY M5TION$ 9 ! PAGES ( ,RUSSIAN HI/ORY BE=E ! TIMES ( ,PET] ,I41 BUT :O SUBSEQU5TLY DISAPPE>$ TO MAKE ROOM = ! NEWCOM]S1 0! M5 ( ALL RANKS10 CALL$ 9TO S]VICE BY ! F\ND] ( ! ,RUSSIAN /ATE4 ,FEEL+ !MSELVES SUPPLANT$ AT ! ,/4 ,PET]SBURG C\RT1 !SE NOBLES ( ! OLD /OCK RETIR$ EI!R TO ! ,OLD ,EQU]RIES' ,QU>T] 9 ,MOSC[1 OR TO !IR PICTURESQUE E/ATES 9 ! C\NTRY R\ND AB\T ! CAPITAL1 & !Y LOOK$ ) A SORT ( CONTEMPT & SECRET JEAL\SY UPON ! MOTLEY CR[D ( FAMILIES :I* CAME 0FROM NO ONE KNEW :]E0 TO TAKE POSSESSION ( ! HI<E/ FUNCTIONS ( ! GOV]NM5T1 9 ! NEW CAPITAL ON ! BANKS ( ! ,NEVA4 

,9 !IR Y\NG] DAYS1 MO/ ( !M HAD TRI$ !IR =TUNES 9 ! S]VICE ( ! /ATE1 *IEFLY 9 ! >MY2 BUT = ONE REASON ( ANO!R !Y HAD SOON AB&ON$ IT1 )\T HAV+ RIS5 TO HI< RANK4 ,! MORE SUCCESSFUL ONES OBTA9$ SOME QUIET1 ALMO/ HONOR>Y POSITION 9 !IR MO!R CITY1 --- MY FA!R WAS ONE ( !SE1 --- :ILE ! MO/ ( ! O!RS SIMPLY RETIR$ FROM ACTIVE S]VICE4 ,BUT :]ESOEV] !Y MI<T HAVE BE5 %IFT$1 9 ! C\RSE ( !IR C>E]S1 OV] ! WIDE SURFACE ( ,RUSSIA1 !Y ALWAYS SOMEH[ MANAG$ TO SP5D !IR OLD AGE 9 A H\SE ( !IR [N 9 ! ,OLD ,EQU]RIES' ,QU>T]1 UND] ! %AD[ ( ! *UR* :]E !Y HAD BE5 BAPTIZ$1 & :]E ! LA/ PRAY]S HAD BE5 PRON\NC$ AT ! BURIAL ( !IR P>5TS4 

,NEW BRAN*ES BUDD$ FROM ! OLD /OCKS4 ,SOME ( !M A*IEV$ MORE OR LESS DI/9CTION 9 DIFF]5T P>TS ( ,RUSSIA2 SOME [N$ MORE LUXURI\S H\SES 9 ! NEW /YLE 9 O!R QU>T]S ( ,MOSC[ OR AT ,/4 ,PET]SBURG2 BUT ! BRAN* :I* CONT9U$ TO RESIDE 9 ! ,OLD ,EQU]RIES' ,QU>T]1 SOME:]E NE> TO ! GRE51 ! YELL[1 ! P9K1 OR ! BR[N *UR* :I* WAS 5DE>$ ?R\< FAMILY ASSOCIATIONS1 WAS CONSID]$ AS ! TRUE REPRES5TATIVE ( ! FAMILY1 IRRESPECTIVE ( ! POSITION IT OCCUPI$ 9 ! FAMILY TREE4 ,ITS OLD-FA%ION$ HEAD WAS TREAT$ ) GREAT RESPECT1 NOT DEVOID1 ,I MU/ SAY1 ( A SLI<T T+E ( IRONY1 EV5 BY ?OSE Y\NG] REPRES5TATIVES ( ! SAME /OCK :O HAD LEFT !IR MO!R CITY = A MORE BRILLIANT C>E] 9 ! ,/4 ,PET]SBURG ,GU>D OR 9 ! C\RT CIRCLES4 ,HE P]SONIFI$ = !M ! ANTIQUITY ( ! FAMILY & ITS TRADITIONS4 

,9 !SE QUIET /REETS1 F> AWAY FROM ! NOISE & ! BU/LE ( ! COMM]CIAL ,MOSC[1 ALL ! H\SES HAD MU* ! SAME APPE>ANCE4 ,!Y W]E MO/LY BUILT ( WOOD1 ) BRI<T GRE5 %EET-IRON RO(S1 ! EXT]IORS /UCCO$ & DECORAT$ ) COLUMNS & PORTICOES2 ALL W]E PA9T$ 9 GAY COLORS4 ,NE>LY EV]Y H\SE HAD BUT ONE /ORY1 ) SEV5 OR N9E BIG1 GAY-LOOK+ W9D[S FAC+ ! /REET4 ,A SECOND /ORY WAS ADMITT$ ONLY 9 ! BACK P>T ( ! H\SE1 :I* LOOK$ UPON A SPACI\S Y>D1 SURR\ND$ BY NUMB]S ( SMALL BUILD+S1 US$ AS KIT*5S1 /ABLES1 CELL>S1 COA*-H\SES1 & AS DWELL+S = ! RETA9]S & S]VANTS4 ,A WIDE GATE OP5$ UPON ?IS Y>D1 & A BRASS PLATE ON IT USUALLY BORE ! 9SCRIPTION1 0,H\SE ( ,SO & ,SO1 ,LIEUT5ANT OR ,COLONEL1 & ,COMM&]10 --- V]Y SELDOM 0,MAJOR-,G5]AL0 OR ANY SIMIL>LY ELEVAT$ CIVIL RANK4 ,BUT IF A MORE LUXURI\S H\SE1 EMBELLI%$ BY A GILD$ IRON RAIL+ & AN IRON GATE1 /OOD 9 ONE ( ?OSE /REETS1 ! BASS PLATE ON ! GATE WAS SURE TO BE> ! NAME ( 0,COMM]CE ,C\NSEL0 OR 0,HONORABLE ,CITIZ50 ,SO & ,SO4 ,!SE W]E ! 9TRUD]S1 ?OSE :O CAME UNASK$ TO SETTLE 9 ?IS QU>T]1 & W]E !RE=E IGNOR$ BY !IR NEI<BORS4 

,NO %OPS W]E ALL[$ 9 !SE SELECT /REETS1 EXCEPT ?AT 9 SOME SMALL WOOD5 H\SE1 BELONG+ TO ! P>I% *UR*1 A T9Y GROC]'S OR GRE5GROC]'S %OP MI<T HAVE BE5 F\ND2 BUT !N1 ! POLICEMAN'S LODGE /OOD ON ! OPPOSITE CORN]1 & 9 ! DAYTIME ! POLICEMAN HIMSELF1 >M$ ) A HALB]D1 W\LD APPE> AT ! DOOR TO SALUTE ) HIS 9(F5SIVE WEAPON ! (FIC]S PASS+ BY1 & W\LD RETIRE 9SIDE :5 DUSK CAME1 TO EMPLOY HIMSELF EI!R AS A COBBL]1 OR 9 ! MANUFACTURE ( SOME SPECIAL SNUFF PATRONIZ$ BY ! ELD] MALE S]VANTS ( ! NEI<BORHOOD4 

,LIFE W5T ON QUIETLY & PEACEFULLY --- AT LEA/ = ! \TSID] --- 9 ?IS ,MOSC[ ,FAUB\RG ,SA9T-,G]MA94 ,9 ! MORN+ NOBODY WAS SE5 9 ! /REETS4 ,AB\T MID-DAY ! *ILDR5 MADE !IR APPE>ANCE UND] ! GUIDANCE ( ,FR5* TUTORS & ,G]MAN NURSES :O TOOK !M \T = A WALK ON ! SN[-COV]$ B\LEV>DS4 ,LAT] ON 9 ! DAY ! LADIES MI<T BE SE5 9 !IR TWO-HORSE SL$GES1 ) A VALET /&+ BEH9D ON A SMALL PLANK FA/5$ AT ! 5D ( ! RUNN]S1 OR 5SCONC$ 9 AN OLD-FA%ION$ C>RIAGE1 IMM5SE & HI<1 SUSP5D$ 9 BIG CURV$ SPR+S & DRAGG$ BY F\R HORSES1 ) A PO/ILION 9 FRONT & TWO VALETS /&+ BEH9D4 ,9 ! EV5+ MO/ ( ! H\SES W]E BRI<TLY ILLUM9AT$1 &1 ! BL9DS NOT BE+ DRAWN D[N1 ! PASS]BY C\LD ADMIRE ! C>D-PLAY]S OR ! WALTZ]S 9 ! SALOONS4 0,OP9IONS0 W]E NOT 9 VOGUE 9 ?OSE DAYS1 & WE W]E YET F> FROM ! YE>S :5 9 EA* ONE ( !SE H\SES A /RUGGLE BEGAN BETWE5 0FA!RS & SONS10 --- A /RUGGLE ?AT USUALLY 5D$ EI!R 9 A FAMILY TRAG$Y OR 9 A NOCTURNAL VISIT ( ! /ATE POLICE4 ,FIFTY YE>S AGO NO?+ ( ! SORT WAS ?\<T (2 ALL WAS QUIET & SMOO?1 --- AT LEA/ ON ! SURFACE4 

,9 ?IS OLD ,EQU]RIES' ,QU>T] ,I WAS BORN 9 #a#h#d#b1 & H]E ,I PASS$ ! FIR/ FIFTE5 YE>S ( MY LIFE4 ,EV5 AFT] \R FA!R HAD SOLD ! H\SE 9 :I* \R MO!R DI$1 & B\<T ANO!R1 & :5 AGA9 HE HAD SOLD ?AT H\SE1 & WE SP5T SEV]AL W9T]S 9 HIR$ H\SES1 UNTIL HE HAD F\ND A ?IRD ONE TO HIS TA/E1 )9 A /ONE'S ?R[ ( ! *UR* :]E HE HAD BE5 BAPTIZ$1 WE /ILL REMA9$ 9 ! ,OLD ,EQU]RIES' ,QU>T]1 LEAV+ IT ONLY DUR+ ! SUMM] TO GO TO \R C\NTRY-SEAT4 

7,S\RCE3 ,MEMOIRS ( A ,REVOLUTIONI/1 ,FIR/ ,$ITION1 ,H\<TON ,MIFFL9 ,COMPANY1 ,BO/ON & ,NEW ,YORK1 #a#h#i#i47 

,FROM 3 ,AN>*Y ,>*IVES4 

,*RONOLOGY 3 
,NOVEMB] #c1 #ahih 3 ,P>T #a3 ,*ILDHOOD1 ,SECTION #a -- ,PUBLICATION4 
,JANU>Y #b#a1 #bag 3 ,P>T #a3 ,*ILDHOOD1 ,SECTION #a -- ,ADD$4 

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