,TEXTILE ,FABRICS 

,PEOPLE 3 

,AU?OR 3 ,WILLIAM ,MORRIS 

,TEXT 3 

      ,! SUBJECT ,I HAVE TO SPEAK ON IS A SUFFICI5TLY WIDE ONE1 & ,I CAN DO LITTLE MORE 
      ?AN H9T AT PO9TS ( 9T]E/ 9 IT = Y\R FUR!R ?\<T & CONSID]ATION2 
      ALL ! MORE AS ,I ?9K ,I %ALL BE RI<T 9 SUPPOS+ ?AT1 EXCEPT = ANYONE 
      ACTUALLY 5GAG$ 9 ! MANUFACTURE ( TEXTILES :O MAY BE PRES5T1 Y\1 9 COMMON 
      ) MO/ $UCAT$ PEOPLE AT ! PRES5T DAY1 HAVE V]Y LITTLE IDEA AS TO H[ A 
      PIECE ( CLO? IS MADE1 & NOT MU* AS TO ! *>ACT]I/IC DIFF]5CES BETWE5 
      ! MANUFACTURES ( DIV]SE P]IODS4 ,H[EV]1 ONE LIMITATION TO MY SUBJECT ,I WILL 
      AT ONCE /ATE3 ,I AM GO+ TO TREAT IT AS AN >TI/ & >*AEOLOGI/1 NOT AS A 
      MANUFACTUR]1 AS WE CALL IT2 ?AT IS1 ,I %ALL BE CONSID]+ ! W>ES 9 QUE/ION 
      FROM ! PO9T ( VIEW ( !IR USEFULNESS 7US+ ! WORK 9 ITS WIDE/ S5SE7 TO 
      ! CONSUM]1 & NOT AS M>KETABLE >TICLES1 AS SUBJECT-MATT] = EX*ANGE4 ,I 
      MU/ ASSUME ?AT ! GOODS ,I AM SPEAK+ ( W]E MADE PRIM>ILY = USE1 & ONLY 
      SECOND>ILY = SALE2 ?AT1 Y\ SEE1 WILL LIMIT ME TO A HI/ORICAL DISC\RSE ON 
      TEXTILE FABRICS1 S9CE AT PRES5T ?OSE W>ES1 LIKE ALL O!R W>ES ( CIVILIZ$ 
      C\NTRIES1 >E MADE PRIM>ILY = SALE1 & ONLY SECOND>ILY = USE4 
     
     

      ,N[ BE=E ,I BEG9 TO SPEAK ( ! ACTUAL HI/ORY ( ?IS IMPORTANT >T ( WEAV+1 
      ,I WILL RUN ?R\< ! V>I\S =MS ( IT :I* IT COMPRISES4 ,BUT FIR/ ( ALL IT 
      MAY BE NECESS>Y TO EXPLA9 ?REE WORDS :I* ,I %ALL BE COMPELL$ TO USE3 W>P1 
      WEFT1 & WEB2 BECAUSE ,I HAVE NOTIC$ ?AT ! WRIT]S ( LEAD+ >TICLES & 
      POETRY >E SOMETIMES A LITTLE VAGUE AB\T ! WAY !Y USE !SE WORDS4 ,WELL1 ! 
      W>P IS ! SET ( /RA9$ ?READS1 SOMETIMES V]TICAL1 SOMETIMES HORIZONTAL1 ON 
      :I* ! WORK IS F\ND$2 ! WEFT IS ! ?READ :I* IS WAFT$ 9 & \T ACROSS 
      ?IS W>P1 & ! WO( OR WEB IS ! PRODUCT ( ! TWO4 
     
     

      ,AS TO ! K9DS ( WEAV+3 FIR/ !RE IS PLA9 WEAV+ 9 ITS SIMPLE/ =M1 
      :]E ! WEFT CROSSES ! W>P REGUL>LY & ALT]NATELY4 ,( ?AT ,I NE$ SAY NO 
      MORE1 BECAUSE ,I HAVE TO SPEAK MO/LY ( ! *>ACT]I/IC ORNAM5T ( ! 
      DIFF]5T P]IODS1 & ?IS PLA9 WEAV+ IS NOT SUSCEPTIBLE ( ORNAM5T1 WOV5 
      ORNAM5T ,I MEAN4 ,TO OBTA9 ?AT ! WEFT MU/ CROSS ! W>P AT REGUL> 9T]VALS1 
      BUT NOT ALT]NATELY2 ON ! SURFACE EI!R W>P OR WEFT MU/ PR$OM9ATE TO MAKE A 
      PATT]N4 ,TO SPEAK BROADLY1 9 ! MO/ ORD9>Y K9D ( PATT]N-WEAV+ ! ?READS 
      COME TO ! SURFACE 9 A REGUL> & ME*ANICAL MANN]4 ,I HAVE NOT TIME TO EXPLA9 
      ALL ! WAYS 9 :I* ?IS IS DONE1 BUT MU/ ASK Y\ TO ACCEPT ?AT SIMPLE 
      /ATEM5T1 & ALL[ ME TO CALL ?IS K9D COMMON FIGURE-WEAV+4 ,SOMETIMES1 AS A 
      SUBDIVISION ( ?IS COMMON FIGURE-WEAV+1 ! W>P COMES *IEFLY TO ! SURFACE1 
      :I* MAKES A SAT92 & ALSO SOMETIMES !SE W>P ?READS >E CAU<T UP OV] WIRES 
      ) A %>P $GE1 :I* >E PULL$ \T AS ! WORK GOES ON1 LEAV+ A SURFACE ) 
      A RAIS$ PILE1 ?AT IS VELVET4 ,9 ! NEXT K9D ( WEAV+ ! WEFT CROSSES ! 
      W>P ALT]NATELY 9DE$1 AS 9 PLA9 UNPATT]N$ WEAV+1 BUT 9/EAD ( BE+ 
      C>RI$ 9 ONE /ROKE ALL ACROSS ! WEB1 5DS OR RETURNS :]EV] ! COLOR 
      *ANGES1 SO =M+ A K9D ( MOSAIC ( COLOR$ PAT*ES2 ?IS IS TAPE/RY1 US+ 
      ! WORD 9 ITS N>R[E/ S5SE4 ,AS A DETAIL ( ?IS WORK ,I \<T TO M5TION ?AT 
      9 TAPE/RY-WEAV+ ! WEFT IS PUT 9 SO LOOSELY1 DRIV5 HOME SO C>EFULLY1 ?AT 
      ! W>P IS 5TIRELY HIDD5 BY ! WEFT4 ,?AT WORK MAY BE CONSID]$ AS A 
      SUB-DIVISION ( ?IS K9D ( WEAV+1 :]E ?RUMS ( WOOL1 HAIR1 OR SILK >E 
      KNOTT$ 9TO A PLA9 CANVAS AS ! WORK PROCE$S1 SO AS TO =M A PILE ) !IR 
      CUT 5DS2 ?IS IS C>PET-WEAV+4 ,LA/LY COMES A K9D ( ORNAM5TAL WEB1 9 :I* 
      ! ORNAM5T IS NOT PRODUC$ BY WEAV+1 BUT BY PA9T+ BY H& OR PR9T+ 
      COMB9$ 9 V>I\S WAYS ) DYE+ 9 ! PIECE2 WE CALL !SE PR9T$ GOODS 
      *9TZES & SO ON4 ,NE$LE-WORK$ EMBROID]Y IS ANO!R WAY ( ORNAM5T+ A CLO?2 
      BUT ,I %ALL NOT DEAL ) ?IS =M ( ORNAM5T$ CLO?4 
     
     

      ,N[ ALL !SE MANN]S ( WEAV+ HAVE BE5 PRACTIC$ FROM TIME IMMEMORIAL1 & >E 
      9 USE TO-DAY1 ) NO MORE V>IATION ( ME?OD ?AN :AT COMES FROM ! 
      APPLICATION ( MA*9]Y = LIFT+ UP ! ?READS ( ! W>P1 AS 9 ! ,JACQU>D 
      MA*9E1 N[ UNIV]SALLY US$ 9 CIVILIZ$ C\NTRIES1 & ! USE ( /EAM-P[] 
      = ?R[+ ! %UTTLE4 ,!SE V>IATIONS ( ME?OD >E ( LITTLE OR NO 9T]E/ 
      FROM ! >TI/IC PO9T ( VIEW1 & >E ONLY US$ TO GET MORE PR(IT \T ( ! 
      PRODUCTION ( GOODS2 !Y >E 9CID5TAL *ANGES1 & NOT ESS5TIAL4 ,H[EV]1 
      ANCI5T AS ALL !SE ME?ODS >E1 ! OLDE/ WAY ( ORNAM5T+ A CLO? O!RWISE 
      ?AN BY M]ELY PA9T+ ON IT ) A PIGM5T 7NOT DYE+71 OR BY EMBROID]Y1 MU/ 
      HAVE BE5 ! TAPE/RY ME?OD1 AS IT REQUIRES BUT A V]Y SMALL AM\NT ( TE*NICAL1 
      ?\< (T5 MU* >TI/IC1 SKILL4 ,! FIGUR$ WEBS ( ! ,HOM]IC POEMS W]E 
      PROBABLY ( ?IS K9D ( WORK2 9 ! ,BRITI% ,MUSEUM !RE IS A SCRAP ( CLO? ( 
      ! ANCI5T ,C5TRAL ,AM]ICAN CIVILIZATION SO WOV52 ! PATT]N$ CLO?S ( ! 
      NOR? ( ,EUROPE BE=E ! F\RTE5? C5TURY W]E MO/LY TAPE/RIES2 ! ,S\? 
      ,K5S+TON ,MUSEUM HAS A PRECI\S FRAGM5T ( SU* WORK ( ! ELEV5? OR E>LY 
      TWELF? C5TURY4 ,AMONG PEOPLES ( HI<] 9DU/RIAL SKILL1 ! COMMON 
      FIGURE-WEAV+ TOOK ! PLACE ( ?IS TE*NICALLY RUDE WORK = ORD9>Y RECURR+ 
      PATT]NS1 BUT TAPE/RY WAS /ILL US$ = PRODUC+ :AT MAY FAIRLY BE CALL$ WOV5 
      PICTURES2 WEBS :OSE ELABORATION & WANT ( REPETITION ( PATT]N W\LD SC>CELY 
      ALL[ ( ANY REASONABLE EFFECT BE+ PRODUC$ BY M]E ME*ANICAL WEAV+4 
     
     

      ,! PA9T+ OR PR9T+ ( CLO?S IS D\BTLESS A V]Y ANCI5T PRACTICE2 ,I MEAN TO 
      SAY1 ! PA9T+ !M ) DYES1 NOT PIGM5TS4 ,! M9UTE & ELABORATE FIGURE 
      ORNAM5T :I* IS %[N ON SOME ( ! ,EGYPTIAN SCULPTURE HAS1 TO ME1 A LOOK ( 
      BE+ DONE BY MEANS ( ?IS >T2 IT IS A CONFIRMATION ( ?IS PROBABILITY ?AT 
      ,PL9Y1 9 A N[ FAM\S PASSAGE1 NOTICES ! FACT ?AT ,EGYPT 9 HIS DAY PRACTIC$ A 
      C]TA9 >T ( FIGUR+ CLO?1 HIS DESCRIPTION ( :I* LEAVES NO D\BT ?AT IT WAS 
      :AT WE %\LD N[ CALL MADD]-PR9T+ OR PA9T+4 ,( ?IS >T ,I %ALL HAVE TO 
      SPEAK 9 ! NOTICE ( DYE+ :I* WILL CONCLUDE ?IS LECTURE4 
     
     

      ,SO H]E WE HAVE TO CONSID] 7LEAV+ \T PLA9 UNORNAM5TAL WEAV+7 FIR/1 COMMON 
      OR ME*ANICAL WEAV+1 9CLUD+ SAT91 DAMASK1 & VELVET2 SECOND1 TAPE/RY1 
      9CLUD+ C>PET-WEAV+2 & ?IRD1 PA9T+ OR PR9T+ ) DYES4 ,LET US 
      CONSID] BRIEFLY ! PRACTICAL HI/ORY ( !SE ?REE >TS2 & FIR/ ! 
      ME*ANICAL OR COMMON WEAV+4 ,) W>ES SO P]I%ABLE AS WOV5 CLO?1 IT IS NOT 
      WOND]FUL ?AT WE HAVE LITTLE READ RECORD ( ! /UFFS ( ANTIQUITY2 BECAUSE ! 
      DESCRIPTIONS ( ! POETS & WRIT]S ( ! TIME CANNOT BE DEP5D$ ON = 
      ACCURACY1 AS !Y ( C\RSE ASSUM$ A G5]AL KN[L$GE 9 !IR AUDI5CE ( ! 
      >TICLES DESCRIB$4 ,! VASE-PA9T+ & SCULPTURE ( ! C5TRAL ,GREEK P]IOD 
      GIVE US AT ALL EV5TS SOME IDEA ( ! QUALITY ( ! /UFFS WORN AT ! P]IOD1 
      & 9 SO DO+ FULLY CONFIRM ! BEAUTIFUL & SIMPLE DESCRIPTION ( ! F9E 
      G>M5T 9 ! ,ODYSSEY1 :I* IS LIK5$ TO ! 9N] SK9 ( AN ONION3 A FIGURE ( 
      SPEE* :I*1 TAK5 ) ! REPRES5TATIONS ( DELICATE CLO? 9 ! FIGURE-WORK 
      ( ! TIME ( ,P]ICLES1 & E>LI] & LAT]1 GIVES ONE AN IDEA ( SOME?+ LIKE 
      ?OSE MIX$ FABRICS ( SILK & COTTON :I* >E /ILL MADE 9 ,GREECE & ,ANATOLIA4 
      ,ONLY Y\ MU/ REMEMB] ?AT ! E>LY CLASSICAL PEOPLES AT LEA/ DID NOT KN[ ( 
      EI!R SILK OR COTTON1 SO ?AT FLAX WAS PROBABLY ! MAT]IAL ( !SE F9E 
      G>M5TS2 & WE KN[ BY ! EVID5CE ( ! ,EGYPTIAN TOMBS ?AT L95 WAS WOV5 
      !RE ( ! UTMO/ DELICACY & F95ESS4 ,I DON'T SUPPOSE WE NE$ D\BT ?AT 
      ME*ANICAL PATT]N-WEAV+ WAS PRACTIC$ BY ! ,GREEKS 9 !IR E>LI] & PALMY 
      DAYS1 BUT ONLY1 ,I FANCY1 = ! SIMPL] K9DS ( PATT]NS 9 PIECE GOODS1 DIAP]S1 
      & SO =?4 ,I CONCLUDE ! RUNN+ BORD]S TO HAVE BE5 NE$LE-WORK1 OR MAYBE 
      DYE-PA9T+4 ,WE HAVE A FEW REPRES5TATIONS ( LOOMS TO HELP US 9 LOOK+ 9TO 
      ?IS MATT]1 :I* H[EV] DO NOT PROVE MU*2 !Y >E ALL V]TICAL1 & AT FIR/ 
      SI<T LOOK NE>LY LIKE ! LOOMS US$ ?R\<\T ! ,MIDDLE ,AGES1 & TO-DAY AT ! 
      ,GOBEL9S1 = TAPE/RY-WEAV+4 ,9 ONE :I* IS FIGUR$ ON A TOMB AT ,B5I ,HASSAN 9 
      ,EGYPT1 ! DETAILS ( AN ORD9>Y HI<-W>P TAPE/RY LOOM >E ALL GIV5 ACCURATELY2 
      BUT ! WEAV]S SEEM TO BE WEAV+ NO?+ BUT PLA9 CLO?2 9 ?IS LOOM ! CLO? 
      IS BE+ WORK$ D[NW>D1 AS 9 ! ORD9>Y TAPE/RY LOOM4 ,9 ANO!R 
      REPRES5TATION1 TAK5 FROM A ,GREEK VASE ( AB\T #d ,B4,C41 ,P5ELOPE IS SEAT$ 
      BE=E H] FAM\S WEB1 :I* IS BE+ WORK$ 9 AN UPRI<T LOOM2 !RE IS ONLY ONE 
      BEAM TO IT1 ! CLO?-BEAM1 & ! WORK IS WOV5 UPW>D2 ! W>PS >E KEPT AT ! 
      /RET* AT ! BOTTOM BY WEI<TS LOOK+ TOO SMALL TO BE EFFECTIVE2 ! WEB IS 
      FIGUR$1 .<IT.> HAS A BORD] ( ! ORD9>Y SUBSIDI>Y PATT]NS ( CLASSICAL >T1 
      & A /RIPE ( MON/]S & W+$ HUMAN FIGURES4 ,IT SEEMS TO HAVE BE5 CONCLUD$ 
      ?AT ?IS REPRES5TS ACTUAL TAPE/RY-WEAV+1 BUT TOO HA/ILY P]HAPS1 AS ! 
      HI<-W>P LOOM ONLY MEANS A C]TA9 AM\NT ( 9CONV5I5CE 9 =GO+ ! 
      ME*ANICAL ADVANTAGES ( ! SPR+-/AVES WORK$ BY TREADLES4 ,ALSO ?IS ,GREEK LOOM 
      ( #d ,B4,C4 IS 9 ALL RESPECTS LIKE ! LOOMS 9 USE 9 ,ICEL& & ! ,F>OES 
      )9 ! LA/ SIXTY YE>S = WEAV+ ORD9>Y CLO?1 PLA9 OR *ECK]$4 
     
     

      ,SO MU*1 & LITTLE 5\<1 ( ! LOOM-WORK ( ! E>LY CLASSICAL P]IOD1 A TIME 
      :5 ! M]ELY 9DU/RIAL >TS :I* W]E1 Y\ MU/ REMEMB]1 MO/LY C>RI$ \T 
      BY SLAVE-LABOR1 W]E DESPIS$2 :5 PRIVATE LUXURY SC>CELY EXI/$2 A FACT MO/ 
      HAPPY BO? = ! DEC5CY ( G5]AL LIFE & ! GLORY ( ! >TS4 ,D\BTLESS ! 
      +5UITY ( ! 9DU/RIAL >TS GA9$ MU* DUR+ ! LAT] & IMP]IAL DAYS ( 
      ,ROME2 BUT !RE IS LITTLE DIRECT EVID5CE 9 ! REMA9S1 >TI/IC OR LIT]>Y1 ( 
      ! TIME ITSELF2 ,PL9Y1 :O IS V]Y P>TICUL> ON ! SUBJECT ( DYE+1 HELP+ US 
      NO?+ 9 ! MATT] ( WEAV+4 ,H[EV]1 P]I%ABLE AS ! ACTUAL WOV5 W>ES 
      >E1 ! >T IS P>TICUL>LY CONS]VATIVE 9 DESIGN1 & :5 WE GET NE>] TO \R 
      [N EPO* WE HAVE A C]TA9 NUMB] ( SPECIM5S PRES]V$ TO US FROM ! T5? 
      C5TURY D[NW>D1 :I* NOT ONLY %[ US H[ PEOPLE WOVE 9 ?OSE DAYS1 BUT GIVE US 
      MORE ?AN A H9T ( ! FA%IONS ( C5TURIES BE=E !IR TIME4 ,A V]Y SMALL 
      FRAGM5T ( CLO? F\ND AT ,SION1 9 ,SWITZ]L&1 GIVES US D\BTLESS A TYPE ( A 
      LATE ,ROMAN FIGUR$ /UFF2 ! PATT]N1 :I* REPEATS 9 A SMALLI% SPACE1 IS ( A 
      WOMAN SEAT$ ON A FI%-TAIL$1 LEOP>D-HEAD$ MON/]1 AMONG CONV5TIONAL 
      FOLIAGE2 ! PO9T ( IT1 AS AN ILLU/RATION ( \R HI/ORY1 BE+ ?AT IT IS 
      DESIGN$ :OLLY 9 ! CLASSICAL MANN]2 SO ?AT :ATEV] ! DATE MAY BE1 IT IS 
      ABSOLUTE EVID5CE1 SO F> AS IT GOES1 ( ! K9D ( WORK ( ! LAT] CLASSICAL 
      TIMES4 
     
     

      ,H[EV]1 IT IS N[ TIME = US TO LEAVE ?IS SOME:AT B>R5 DES]T ( VAGUE 
      POETICAL DESCRIPTIONS1 HA/Y & G5]ALIZ$ DRAW+S ON VASES OR TOMBS1 & V]Y 
      R>E SCRAPS ( ! WOV5 GOOD !MSELVES1 & M>* 9TO ! MORE FRUITFUL C\NTRY 
      ( ! E>LY ,MIDDLE ,AGES1 :I* GIVE US QUITE DIRECT EVID5CE ( ! >TS ( 
      WEAV+ ( ! DAYS ( ! ,BYZANT9E ,EMPIRE4 ,N[ Y\ MU/ REMEMB] ?AT :ATEV] 
      %>E ! CITY ( ,NEW ,ROME TOOK 9 ACTUALLY PRODUC+ WORKS ( ! 9DU/RIAL >TS 
      UND] H] EMP]ORS1 %E WAS AT LEA/ ! FO/]-MO!R ( ?OSE >TS = ALL 
      M$IEVAL ,EUROPE1 & FROM H] CAME ?AT 9FLU5CE :I* BR\<T AB\T ! NEW >T 
      ( ,EUROPE1 :OSE ORIG9S >E OBSCURE 5\< TILL !Y MEET & >E FUZ$ AT 
      ,CON/ANT9OPLE 9TO A /YLE :I* = C5TURIES AFT] WAS WORLD-WIDE2 ?IS WAS 
      NATURAL 5\<4 ,LOOK$ UPON AS AN ,EUROPEAN CITY1 ,BYZANTIUM WAS = LONG ! ONLY 
      GREAT CITY ( ,EUROPE ?AT WAS REALLY ALIVE & DOM9ANT 9 PEACE & W>2 AS A 
      MI/RESS ( AN 5EMY %E DEALT ) ALL ! GREAT BIR?-C\NTRIES ( >T & 
      LETT]S1 NAY1 ( HUMAN LIFE4 ,9DIA1 ,MESOPOTAMIA1 ,SYRIA1 ,P]SIA1 ,ASIA ,M9OR1 ,EGYPT2 
      ! IDEAS & >TS ( ALL !SE C\NTRIES T\*$ H]1 & M+L$ ) ! REMA9S 
      ( ! OLD] >T ( ,GREECE1 FROM :I* ! ACADEMICISM ( ! LONG ,ROMANO-,GREEK 
      P]IOD HAD NOT CRU%$ ALL ! LIFE1 SORELY AS IT HAD WEI<$ UPON IT4 ,BYZANTIUM 
      !N1 ! ,BYZANTIUM ( ,JU/9IAN & ONW>DS1 WE MU/ LOOK UPON AS ! CAPITAL ( 
      ! 9DU/RIAL >TS1 FROM ! SIX? TO ! ?IRTE5? C5TURY1 & 9 NONE ( !M 
      WAS H] 9FLU5CE MORE OBVI\S ?AN 9 ?AT ( WEAV+4 ,ONE EV5T ALONE :I* TOOK 
      PLACE !RE REVOLUTIONIZ$ ?IS >T 9 ,EUROPE1 ! 9TRODUCTION ( ! SILKWORM 9 
      ! SIX? C5TURY2 :I* EV5T HAS ALSO MADE IT MORE POSSIBLE TO JUDGE ( :AT WAS 
      DONE 9 E>LY TIMES1 BECAUSE ! MAT]IAL HAV+ ! ADVANTAGE ( NOT BE+ LIABLE 
      TO BE MO?-EAT51 SOME SPECIM5S ( E>LY DATE HAVE BE5 LEFT TO US4 
     
     

      ,IT W\LD TAKE US TOO LONG TO DISCUSS ! MU* DISPUT$ QUE/ION ( ! ACTUAL DATE 
      ( !SE SCRAPS1 SU* AS ?OSE F\ND 9 ! TOMB ( ,*>LES ! ,GREAT AT 
      ,AIX-LA-,*APELLE2 IT IS 5\< = US ?AT1 AS ,I HAVE SAID1 !Y UND\BT$LY 
      REPRES5T ! DESIGN ( ! /UFFS ( ,JU/9IAN'S P]IOD1 & ?R\< ?AT P]IOD 
      ?R[ LI<T ON ! FA%IONS ( OLD ,ROME1 & EV5 ( CLASSICAL ,A!NS4 ,!SE 
      E>LIE/ ,BYZANT9E OR QUASI-,BYZANT9E /UFFS >E MO/ COMMONLY FIGUR$ ) 
      CONTIGU\S CIRCLES OR WREA?S1 :I* 5CLOSE DIV]S SUBJECTS3 SOMETIMES ! 
      *>IOT-RACE 9 ! ,HIPPODROME1 OR ! CONSUL> SACRIFICE1 ! ,BYZANT9E EMP]ORS1 
      AS CONSULS ( ! ,REPUBLIC1 BE+ ! *IEF FIGURES2 ! LION-HUNT 9 ! EMP]OR'S 
      >5A OR ! P>K ( ! ,GREAT ,K+2 ! GLADIATOR AGA9 DEAL+ ) HIS LION 9 
      ! >5A1 & PROBABLY DO+ DUTY = ,SAMSON 9 ! EYES ( ! DEV\T ,BYZANT9E 
      ,*RI/IAN2 ALL !SE SUBJECTS TAKE US AWAY 9TO CLASSICAL TIMES4 ,BUT !RE >E 
      O!R SUBJECTS )9 !SE ,BYZANT9E OR E>LY M$IEVAL G>L&S :I* C>RY US 
      FUR!R BACK1 & H9T AT A TIME BE=E ! DAWN ( HI/ORY1 MU* SIMPL] ?\< 
      !Y BE ON ! SURFACE2 = (T5 !SE CIRCLES >E 9HABIT$ 7TO USE AN H]ALDIC 
      PHRASE7 BY BEA/S1 W+$ OR O!RWISE1 GRIFF9S1 ELEPHANTS & BIRDS1 OPPOS+ ONE 
      ANO!R 7AGA9 9 H]ALDIC PHRASE7 ON EI!R SIDE ( AN UPRI<T OBJECT1 SOMETIMES 
      BRAN*$1 V>I\SLY4 ,N[1 ?\< Y\ MAY ?9K ?AT ?IS IS A V]Y NATURAL WAY ( 
      FILL+ A CIRCLE ORNAM5TALLY1 YET ,I ?9K IT HAS BE5 CONCLUSIVELY PROV$ ?AT 
      !SE BEA/S & !IR DIVID+ OBJECT >E SYMBOLS ( ANCI5T WOR%IP1 ! OBJECT 
      BE+ P]HAPS TRANSLAT$ BY ! ,ZOROA/RIANS AS ! HOLY FIRE1 ?\< ORIG9ALLY 
      SIGNIFY+ ! HOLY TREE1 :I* HAS PLAY$ SU* A CURI\S P>T 9 ANCI5T 
      SYMBOLISM1 OR BETOK5+ ( MY/]IES4 
     
     

      ,SO !N ,CON/ANT9OPLE TAKES US BACK NOT ONLY TO ! TIME ( ! ,CAES>S ON ONE 
      SIDE1 BUT ON ! O!R ALSO TO ?AT ( ! ,GREAT ,K+ ( ,P]SIA1 TO ! ,K+S ( 
      ,ASSYRIA1 ! MON>*S ( ,BABYLON1 & F> BEYOND !M TO ! ,ACCADIAN PEOPLE & 
      !IR A/RONOMICAL LORE4 ,BUT IF ,CON/ANT9OPLE WAS ! CAPITAL ( ! WEAV]'S >T 
      TILL ! TWELF? C5TURY1 DUR+ ! NEW TWO C5TURIES ,PAL]MO TOOK H] PLACE4 ,! 
      *RONICL]S TELL US ?AT JU/ 9 ! MIDDLE ( ! TWELF? C5TURY1 ,ROG] ! 
      ,NORMAN1 ,K+ ( ,SICILY1 9 A RAID HE MADE ON ! ,EA/]N ,EMPIRE1 TOOK ,COR9?1 
      ,!BES1 & ,A!NS1 :]E !RE WAS /ILL A CONSID]ABLE SILK-WEAV+ 9DU/RY2 & 
      ?AT P>T ( ! BOOTY :I* HE C>RI$ (F FROM ?OSE T[NS CONSI/$ ( ! 
      SILK-WEAV]S !MSELVES & !IR FAMILIES1 :OM HE TOOK BACK ) HIM TO ,PAL]MO 
      & E/ABLI%$ 9 A ROYAL FACTORY ATTA*$ TO HIS PALACE1 BIDD+ !M TEA* !IR 
      MY/]Y TO HIS [N PEOPLE4 ,FROM ?AT TIME TILL PA/ ! MIDDLE ( ! M$IEVAL 
      P]IOD ,SICILY WAS ! GREAT WORK%OP = SILK GOODS4 
     
     

      ,AL?\< ?IS /ORY HAS BE5 MU* ACCEPT$1 TOLD AS IT WAS GRAVELY & 
      CIRCUM/ANTIALLY1 IT MU/ BE LOOK$ UPON AS A LEG5D F\ND$ ON ! UND\BT$ FACT 
      ?AT 9 ! ?IRTE5? & F\RTE5? C5TURIES ,SICILY WAS ! HEADQU>T]S ( ! 
      SILK-WEAV+ CRAFT4 ,! POPULATION ( ,SICILY CONSI/$ L>GELY ( ,S>AC5IC TRIBES1 
      :O KEPT AMONG !M ! SKILL 9 ! 9DU/RIAL >TS :I* !Y HAD ACQUIR$ 
      7*IEFLY1 NO D\BT1 FROM ,BYZANTIUM1 ?\< NOT ALWAYS DIRECTLY7 9 ! E>LY ,MIDDLE 
      ,AGES2 BESIDES ,SICILY HAD BE5 A MO/ IMPORTANT \T-WORK ( ! ,BYZANT9E EMPIRE 9 
      ITS PALMY DAYS2 WAS1 9 FACT1 MU* MORE IMPORTANT ?AN ! T[NS ( ,GREECE PROP]2 
      & WAS NOT AT ALL LIKELY TO HAVE LACK$ ITS DUE WEAV+ CRAFT4 ,ALTOGE!R ITS 
      SEEMS EXTREMELY UNLIKELY ?AT ,ROG] %\LD HAVE BE5 ! FIR/ ( ! ,NORMAN K+S 
      TO SET UP A ROYAL WEAV+-%$1 ESPECIALLY AS ! ,NORMAN K+S FROM ! FIR/ HAD 
      AFFECT$ TO IMITATE ORI5TAL CU/OMS1 REIGN+1 AS ,I HAVE SAID1 AMONG A POPULATION 
      :I* WAS REALLY ORI5TAL2 & ?IS CU/OM ( A ROYAL FACTORY1 CONNECT$ AS IT WAS 
      ) ! E/ABLI%M5T ( ! S]AGLIO1 :I*1 'TIS SAID1 ! ,NORMAN K+S W]E NOT 
      SL[ TO ADOPT1 W\LD HAVE SEEM$ A NECESSITY TO A MON>* AT ,PAL]MO LONG BE=E 
      ! TIME ( ,ROG]'S RAID ON ,GREECE4 ,Y\ MAY NOTE AT ?IS PLACE ?AT !SE 
      WEAV+-%$S ( ORI5TAL POT5TATES TURN$ \T ?OSE RI* /UFFS :I* W]E 
      ESPECIALLY US$ = PRES5TS & ROBES ( HONOR1 & HAD ,>ABIC WRIT+ 
      9T]M+L$ ) ! DESIGN2 A FACT :I* HAS S]V$ TO DATE SOME ( !SE WEBS 
      BEYOND DISPUTE1 AS ! WRIT+ SOMETIMES 9CLUDES ! NAME ( ! REIGN+ PR9CE4 
      ,A WORD OR TWO ON !SE WRITT5 /UFFS WILL HAVE TO BE SAID PRES5TLY4 
     
     

      ,ANYH[1 H[EV] ! MANUFACTURE WAS E/ABLI%$1 !RE IS NO QUE/ION ?AT 9 ! 
      F\RTE5? C5TURY ,PAL]MO WAS ! HEADQU>T]S ( ! SILK-WEAV+ CRAFT2 & MO/ 
      HAPPILY WE HAVE ABUNDANCE ( EVID5CE ( ! K9D ( WORK PRODUC$ !RE1 = A 
      GREAT MANY FRAGM5TS HAVE BE5 PRES]V$ TO US 9 ! TREASURE-H\SES ( ! 
      *UR*ES ( ?AT & ! SUCCE$+ C5TURY4 ,NAY1 EV5 9 ,5GL&1 9 SPITE ( ! 
      ,RE=MATION1 SOME EVID5CE IS LEFT US ( ! LONG WAY ?AT !SE BEAUTIFUL GOODS 
      TRAVEL$2 = ON ! BACKGR\NDS ( PA9T$ PANELS 9 ! RI*LY ADORN$ SCRE5S 
      ( \R ,EA/ ,ANGLIAN *UR*ES1 & ON ! ROBES ( ! SA9TS DEPICT$ !REON1 
      AFT] FIGUR$ PATT]NS MORE OR LESS ACCURATELY TAK5 FROM ! ,SICILIAN WEBS1 :I* 
      D\BTLESS =M$ P>T ( ! VE/M5TS ( ! SACRI/Y4 
     
     

      ,NOR? ,G]MANY1 :]E ! ,RE=MATION W5T ON 9 ITS E>LI] DAYS MORE PEACEABLY & 
      ) LESS DE/RUCTION ?AN 9 ,5GL&1 HAS1 H[EV]1 BE5 ! GREAT /OREH\SE ( 
      !SE 9VALUABLE TREASURES1 ! SACRI/Y ( ! ,*UR* ( ,/4 ,M>Y AT ,DANZIG BE+ 
      P>TICUL>LY RI* 9 !M4 ,! MUSEUMS AT ,VI5NA1 ! ,L\V]1 & ! ,S\? 
      ,K5S+TON ,MUSEUM H]E1 >E WELL /OCK$ ) EXAMPLES1 :I* ,I MU/ SAY1 AS TO 
      \RSELVES1 >E NOT TREAT$ ) ! RESPECT 7BY ! PUBLIC1 ,I MEAN7 :I* !Y 
      DES]VE4 ,= ,I MU/ TELL Y\ ?AT !SE /UFFS1 DESIGN$ 9 ! HEYDAY ( M$IEVAL 
      >T1 UNIT+ ! WILD FANCY & LUXURI\S 9TRICACY ( ! ,EA/ ) ! 
      /RAI<T=W>D /ORY-TELL+ IMAG9ATION & CLE> DEF9ITE DRAW+ ( M$IEVAL 
      ,EUROPE1 >E ! V]Y CR[N ( DESIGN AS APPLI$ TO WEAV+4 
     
     

      ,TO A C]TA9 EXT5T !Y PRES]V$ ! OLD] FA%IONS1 & REPEAT$1 ?\< NOT 
      S]VILELY1 ! PATT]NS ( ! ,BYZANT9E EPO*4 ,! WRIT+ ON ! WEBS SEEMS TO 
      HAVE BE5 US$ ON !M AS A SORT ( TRADE M>K1 IMPLY+ ?AT !Y W]E ( F9E 
      ORI5TAL MANUFACTURE2 ONLY = ! MO/ P>T IT IS M]E %AM WRIT+1 A SCRAWL 
      :I* HAS BORR[$ C]TA9 OBVI\S =MS FROM ! REAL ,>ABIC LETT]S1 :OSE 
      GRACEFUL & 5]GETIC CURVES FITT$ !M SPECIALLY = ?IS K9D ( WRITT5 
      ORNAM5T2 = ! RE/1 ! RES\RCES & ! +5UITY ( /RUCTURE1 ! RI*NESS 
      ( IMAG9ATION 9 !SE /UFFS IS AMAZ+4 ,BEA/S1 BIRDS1 & COMP\ND MON/]S >E 
      FREQU5T1 (T5 >RANG$ 9 OPPOSITION ON EA* SIDE ( ! HOLY TREE OR HOLY FIRE 
      AS A=ESAID2 BUT (T5 SIMPLY PASS+ !IR LIVES 9 ! SC5ES ( NATURE1 & 
      G5]ALLY ADMIRABLY DRAWN AS TO !IR *>ACT]I/ICS1 ?\< ( C\RSE G5]ALIZ$ 
      TO SUIT ! SOME:AT 9TRACTABLE MAT]IAL4 ,!N WE HAVE CA/LES1 F\NTA9S1 
      ISL&S1 %IPS1 %IP-SAILS1 & O!R SU* 9ANIMATE OBJECTS4 ,F9ALLY ! WEAV] 
      USES ! HUMAN =M (T5 5\<1 ?\< SELDOM COMPLETE2 HALF-WOM5 LEAN D[N FROM 
      PALM-TREES1 EM]GE FROM %ELL-LIKE =MS AMONG ! WOODS ) NETS 9 !IR 
      H&S1 SPREAD !IR FLOAT+ HAIR OV] ! :OLE PATT]N1 WAT] !IR H\NDS AT ! 
      WOODL& F\NTA9S1 & SO =?4 ,N[ & AGA9 DEF9ITE W+$ ANGELS >E 
      9TRODUC$4 ,9 ONE :OLE CLASS ( DESIGNS A PROM95T FEATURE IS ! SUN-DOG1 AS IT 
      US$ TO BE CALL$ 9 ! OLD] ,5GLI% TONGUE1 A CL\D B>ELY HID+ ! SUN1 :I* 
      S5DS ITS /RAI<T RAYS ACROSS ! DESIGN ) ADMIRABLE EFFECT4 
     
     

      ,& ALL !SE ?+S >E DRAWN AT ONCE ) ! UTMO/ DELICACY & COMPLETE 
      FIRMNESS2 !RE IS NO ATTEMPT TO 9VOLVE OR OBSCURE ANY?+1 YET ! BEAUTY ( ! 
      DRAW+ & ! +5UITY ( ! PATT]N COMB9$ GIVE US ?AT SATISFY+ S5SE ( 
      EASE & MY/]Y :I* DOES NOT =CE US TO KEEP FOLL[+ = EV] ! REPETITION 
      ( ! PATT]N2 9 %ORT1 9 MO/ ( ! DESIGNS ( ?IS PLACE & P]IOD !RE IS 
      NO?+ LEFT TO DESIRE EI!R = BEAUTY1 FITNESS1 OR IMAG9ATION4 
     
     

      ,FROM ,PAL]MO ! >T ( SILK-WEAV+ F\ND ITS WAY 9TO ! MORE NOR!RN P>TS ( 
      ,ITALY1 & SETTL$ DEF9ITELY AT ,LUCCA1 ! C5T] ( A GREAT SILK-GR[+ 
      DI/RICT1 :OSE MANUFACTURE OV]LAPS ?AT ( ,PAL]MO 9 DATE1 SO ?AT IT IS NOT 
      EASY TO /ATE ) ANY C]TA9TY :E!R SU* OR SU* A PIECE ( GOODS WAS WOV5 AT 
      ONE CITY OR ! O!R4 ,BUT AS ! YE>S PASS$ A K9D ( DESIGN PECULI>LY 
      GRACEFUL1 BUT NOT SO /RONGLY ACC5TUAT$ AS 9 ! E>LI] PATT]NS1 M>KS ?IS 
      S*OOL2 !SE PATT]NS >E G5]ALLY F\ND$ ON ! V9E2 BIRDS & ANIMALS >E 
      (T5 9TRODUC$ 9TO !M1 BUT DO NOT PLAY SU* A PROM95T P>T AS 9 ! E>LI] 
      CLO?S4 ,AS TO ! TE*NIQUE ( !SE WEBS ( ,SICILY & ,LUCCA1 IT IS ON ALL SIDES 
      ADMIRABLE1 & 9 NO?+ MORE SO ?AN ITS SIMPLICITY2 SO F]TILE WAS ! DESIGN]1 
      HIS WORK SO CRISP1 ELEGANT1 & P[]FUL AT ONCE1 ?AT IT W\LD HAVE BE5 ! 
      HEI<T ( BAD TA/E TO COMPLICATE OR HUDDLE IT UP ) TORM5T+ ! WEBS 9TO 
      RIBS OR /RIPES OR HONEYCOMBS OR H]R+-BONES1 OR LONG WEAK FLOATS ( SILK2 !SE 
      >E ! POOR REFUGES FROM B>R5NESS ( 9V5TION :I* A LESS >TI/IC AGE IS 
      DRIV5 TO1 & HAS US$1 & /ILL USES 9 A MO/ PR(USE & WE>ISOME WAY4 
     
     

      ,ONE PECULI>ITY ,I MAY NOTE AB\T ALL !SE E>LY /UFFS2 GOLD IS FREELY US$ 9 
      !M1 BUT ! GOLD ?READ IS NOT LIKE ?AT ( \R TIME & SOME C5TURIES BACK1 TO 
      WIT1 A ?9 RIBBON ( GILT SILV] TWI/$ R\ND A FLOSS SILK CORE1 BUT IT MADE BY 
      GILD+ /RIPS ( F9E VELLUM & TWI/+ ?AT R\ND A CORE ( HEMP OR H>D SILK4 
      ,?IS PLAN HAS BO? ITS ADVANTAGES & DISADVANTAGES2 IT DOES NOT WE> AS WELL AS 
      ! WIRE-TWI/$ ?READ1 BUT ALSO IS NOT SO APT TO T>NI%4 ,! ,*9ESE /ILL USE 
      SIMIL> GOLD ?READ1 ONLY BE SUB/ITUT+ GILT PAP] = GILT VELLUM DO NOT MAKE SO 
      GOOD AN >TICLE4 
     
     

      ,BE=E PASS+ TO ! NEXT C5TURY1 ,I MU/ M5TION ?AT ALL ?IS :ILE MU* SILK 
      WAS MADE 9 ! ,EA/4 ,AT ,CAIRO & !REAB\TS WAS A MANUFACTORY ( /RIP$ SILK1 
      9 :I* ! ,>ABIC WRIT+1 REAL & F9ELY DESIGN$1 PLAY$ A GREAT P>T2 9 ?IS 
      WORK ! GOLD WAS ALWAYS FLAT /RIPES ( ! GILT P>*M5T :I* M>KS ! SPECIAL 
      MANUFACTORY4 ,9 ALL CASES Y\ MU/ REMEMB] !RE WAS AT ?IS TIME NO ESS5TIAL 
      DIFF]5CE BETWE5 ! ORNAM5T ( ,EA/ & ,WE/2 EV5 9 >*ITECTURE ! 
      RESEMBLANCES >E MORE NOTICEABLE ?AN ! DIFF]5CES2 BUT ( C\RSE 9 ! LESS] 
      >T WE >E CONSID]+1 ! NE$S ( CLIMATE & MANN]S HAD NOT ! SAME 9FLU5CE 
      AS 9 >*ITECTURE2 ACCORD+LY WE F9D NOT ONLY ! SAME DETAILS BUT ! SAME 
      PATT]NS 9 USE 9 ,P]SIA & ,SYRIA AS 9 ,SICILY & ,ITALY4 ,IT IS ALSO 9T]E/+ 
      TO NOTE ?AT PIECES ( ,*9ESE DAMASK >E NOT SELDOM TO BE F\ND AS ! GR\NDS ( 
      NE$LE-EMBROID]$ ECCLESIA/ICAL VE/M5TS1 :OSE PATT]NS >E ID5TICAL ) 
      ?OSE EV5 N[ WOV5 !RE4 
     
     

      ,AS TO ,NOR!RN ,EUROPE1 D\BTLESS ! ORNAM5TAL WEAV+1 :I* WAS MO/LY WOR/$1 
      WAS *IEFLY TAPE/RY WORK2 BUT ITS SEEMS ?AT SOME K9D ( FIGUR$ /UFF O!R ?AN 
      ?AT WAS MADE4 ,9 ! $ICTS ( ,S4 ,L\IS M5TION IS MADE ( TAPISS]IE A 
      LA HAUTE LISSE1 TAPISS]IE S>RAC5OISE 7( :I* MORE ANON72 & ALSO ( 
      TAPISS]IES NO/REZ1 :I* LA/ >E OBVI\SLY GOODS MADE 9 A LONG PIECE 
      = CUTT+ & JO9+4 ,MY [N IMPRESSION IS ?AT !SE TAPISS]IES 
      NO/REZ 7JUDG+ BY ! CONTEXT7 W]E LIKE ! RUDELY FL[]$ /UFF 
      TRADITIONALLY MADE BY ! ,ITALIAN PEASANTS TO-DAY1 9 ! ,ABRUZZI1 = 9/ANCE1 
      & ( :I* ! ,ROMAN PEASANT WOM5'S APRONS >E MADE4 ,?IS IMPRESSION IS *IEFLY 
      F\ND$ ON ! FACT ?AT EXACTLY ! SAME MAKE ( CLO? IS WOV5 9 ,ICEL& = 
      COV]LETS1 SADDLE-CLO?S1 & ! LIKE1 ! 9F]5CE BE+ ?AT IT WAS =M]LY 9 
      USE V]Y WIDELY ?R\<\T ,EUROPE2 IT SEEMS1 H[EV]1 ?AT E>LY 9 ! F\RTE5? 
      C5TURY !RE WAS SOME SORT ( SILK-WEAV+ & EV5 VELVET-WEAV+ 9 ,P>IS1 BUT ,I 
      IMAG9E IT TO HAVE EI!R BE5 PLA9 WEAV+ OR TAPE/RY1 & ! VELVET TO HAVE 
      BE5 MADE LIKE A C>PET4 ,ONE MAY NOTE1 AS %[+ CLE>LY ?AT ! ,EA/ MADE 
      ME*ANICALLY-WOV5 CLO? & ! ,WE/ TAPE/RIES1 ?AT :5 ! UNLUCKY ,FR5*M5 
      :O W]E TAK5 BY ,BAJAZET AT ! R\T ( ,NICOPOLIS1 9 ! YE> #a#c#i#f1 W]E 
      >RANG+ !IR RANSOM ) HIM1 & W]E TRY+ TO F9D \T ) :AT R>ITIES 
      !Y W\LD BE LIKELY TO S(T5 ! HE>T ( !IR CONQU]OR1 !Y W]E TOLD ?AT HE 
      HAD A TURN = ! F9E TAPE/RY ( ,>RAS1 0IF SO BE !Y W]E ( GOOD ANCI5T 
      /ORIES02 F9E L95 ( ,RHEIMS W\LD NOT COME AMISS TO HIM EI!R1 OR F9E SC>LETS 
      7MORE ( ?OSE AFT]W>DS73 0=10 SAID !IR FRI5DS1 0AS TO CLO?S ( SILK & 
      GOLD ! K+ & ! LORDS !RE 9 ,TURKEY HAVE ( !M 5\< & TO SP>E40 
     
     

      ,! FIFTE5? C5TURY BR+S US TO ,FLOR5CE & ,V5ICE1 :]E ! SPL5DID CLO?S 
      W]E WR\<T :I* W]E US$ SO PR(USELY 9 ! MAGNIFIC5T /ATEL9ESS ( ! 
      LAT] ,MIDDLE ,AGES4 ,?IS IS A P>T ( ! SUBJECT ?AT WANTS TREAT+ CL9ICALLY1 SO 
      TO SAY2 ?AT IS1 WE %\LD BE ALONGSIDE SOME ( ! F9E SPECIM5S 9 ! BE/ 
      MUSEUMS 9 ORD] TO MAKE Y\ UND]/& IT PROP]LY4 ,NO?+ CAN EXCE$ ! 
      SPL5DOR ( SOME ( !SE ,FLOR5T9E & ,V5ETIAN WEBS1 :OSE SPECIALTY WAS A 
      P>TICUL> K9D ( RI* VELVET & GOLD1 (T5 ) ONE PILE RAIS$ ON ! TOP ( 
      ANO!R4 ,9 !SE CLO?S ! VELLUM-TWI/$ GOLD GIVES PLACE TO GOLD ?READ AS WE 
      KN[ IT1 BUT GILD$ SO ?ICKLY ?AT IT IS NOT UNCOMMON TO F9D SPECIM5S :]E ! 
      GOLD IS V]Y LITTLE1 IT AT ALL1 T>NI%$4 
     
     

      ,RI* & SPL5DID AS !SE CLO?S >E1 !Y HAVE1 TO A C]TA9 EXT5T1 LO/ SOME ( 
      ! IMAG9ATIVE 9T]E/ ( ! E>LI] DESIGNS2 IT W\LD NOT BE TRUE TO SAY ?AT 
      !Y DEP5D ON !IR MAT]IAL = ! PLEASURE !Y GIVE1 BECAUSE 9 !SE GREAT 
      PATT]NS1 F\ND$ ON VEGETATION ( ! ?I/LE & >TI*OKE K9D1 !RE IS A 
      VIGOR & FRE$OM ?AT IS MO/ DELI<TFUL & CAPTIVAT+2 BUT !Y >E MORE 
      >*ITECTURAL & LESS PICTURE-LIKE ?AN ! ,SICILIAN /UFFS2 ! /RANGE MON/]S1 
      ! FAIRY WOODS & ISL& %ORES1 ! DAMSEL-PEOPL$ CA/LES1 PALM-TREES & 
      %ELLS1 ! LIONS DR9K+ AT ! WOODL& F\NTA91 HAWK1 SWAN1 MALL>D1 & DOVE1 
      ! SWALL[ & HIS NE/L+S1 & ! HOT SUN BREAK+ ?R\< ! CL\DS - ALL 
      !SE WOND]S & MANY ANO!R HAVE GIV5 PLACE TO SKILLFULLY & BEAUTIFULLY 
      >RANG$ LEAVES & T5DRILS4 ,AS WE %ALL SEE1 LAT] ON1 PICTURE-WEAV+ HAD 
      REA*$ ITS HEI<T BY ?IS TIME1 & !RE WAS SOME?+ ( A DIVISION ( LABOR 
      BETWE5 ! TWO K9DS ( WEAV+-DESIGN2 AT ! SAME TIME ! DESIGN WAS ABSOLUTELY 
      PURE & SUITABLE TO ITS PURPOSE2 NO ATOM ( CORRUPTION HAD CREPT 94 
     
     

      ,N[ AS TO ! RELATION ( ?IS DESIGN TO ?AT ( ! ,EA/2 !Y /ILL M>*$ CLOSE 
      TOGE!R UNTIL ! FALSE TA/E ( ! ,R5AISSANCE BEGAN TO AFFECT ! LAT] 
      M$IEVAL WORK4 ,?R\<\T !RE IS MORE ( DI/9CT ELEGANCE 9 ! EA/]N WORK1 
      & ?AT MORE ESPECIALLY 9 ?AT K9D ( DESIGN :I* WE CALL ,P]SIAN4 
     
     

      ,! SIXTE5? C5TURY SAW ! *ANGE 9 WOV5 WORK :I* FELL UPON ALL ! 
      >*ITECTURAL >TS4 ,I HAVE SAID ?AT WEAV+ IS CONS]VATIVE ( PATT]NS & 
      ME?ODS1 & ?IS IS V]Y OBVI\S 9 ?IS GREAT P]IOD ( *ANGE2 ONE MAY SAY ?AT 
      ! ORI5TAL-GO?IC FEEL+1 :I* WAS ! V]Y WELL-SPR+ ( F9E DESIGN 9 ?IS 
      >T1 LA/$ SIDE BY SIDE ) DIV]S NEW FA%IONS1 SOME ( :I* W]E M]ELY ! 
      \TCOME ( ! G5]AL PSEUDO-CLASSICAL FEEL+1 & %[N 9 DETAIL RA!R ?AN 
      G5]AL >RANGEM5T ( ! PATT]N1 & 9 SOME PIECES ( FANTA/IC UGL9ESS :I* 
      9DICAT$ ONLY TOO SURELY ! COM+ DEGRADATION ( ! WEAV+ >T4 
     
     

      ,BY ! FIR/ YE>S ( ! SEV5TE5? C5TURY ?AT DEGRADATION HAD BEFALL5 ! >T 
      9 ,EUROPE1 9 FACT IT WAS BECOM+1 OR HAD BECOME NO LONG] AN >T1 BUT A TRADE1 AS 
      WE V]Y PROP]LY N[ADAYS CALL WORK1 :I* IS REALLY BUT AN ACCID5T ( ! 
      PR(IT-M>KET4 ,I NE$ NOT1 !RE=E1 TRACE ITS DEGRADATION FUR!R1 ?\< ?AT 
      DEGRADATION WAS *ECK$1 TO A C]TA9 EXT5T1 BY ! TRADITIONS ( ! BETT] 
      TIMES2 & SOME GOOD WORK WAS DONE UNTIL ! GREAT FLOOD ( ! VIL5ESS ( ! 
      EI<TE5? C5TURY SWAMP$ EV]Y?+1 & PREP>$ ! WAY = ! 9ANITY ( ! 
      N9ETE5?2 :I*1 9 ITS TURN1 LET US HOPE1 IS DOOM$ TO PREP>E ! WAY = A NEW 
      LIFE ONCE MORE1 EV5 9 ?IS SMALL CORN] ( ! RESULT ( MAN'S 9TELLIG5CE1 ! 
      TEXTILE >TS4 
     
     

      ,HAV+ ?US GONE V]Y BRIEFLY ?R\< ! /ORY ( ME*ANICAL WEAV+1 ,I MU/ N[ 
      TURN BACK TO TAKE UP ! O!R SIDE ( WEAV+1 & TALK ( IT AS PRODUC+ 
      SOME?+ :I* WE MU/ CALL PICTURES = WANT ( A BETT] WORD4 ,I HAVE SAID ?AT 
      9 ! E>LY DAYS ( ,GREEK CIVILIZATION ! MORE ELABORATELY FIGUR$ CLO? MU/ 
      HAVE BE5 EI!R EMBROID]Y OR TAPE/RY2 ( C\RSE 9 ! LAT] CLASSICAL TIMES1 
      :5 ! ME*ANICAL >TS HAD ATTA9$ A GREAT DEGREE ( P]FECTION1 SOME ( ?IS 
      ELABORATE WORK MI<T HAVE BE5 DONE 9 ! ME*ANICAL LOOM2 BUT JUDG+ FROM ,OVID'S 
      DESCRIPTION ( ! CONTE/ BETWE5 ,M9]VA & ,>A*NE1 :I* AT LEA/ ADMITS ! 
      POSSIBILITY ( WEAV+ QUITE AN ELABORATE PICTURE 7= AT LEA/ !Y W]E NOT 
      EMBROID]+71 TAPE/RY-WORK MU/ HAVE BE5 PRACTIC$ 9 CLASSICAL TIMES4 ,BUT WE 
      NE$ NOT DWELL V]Y LONG UPON !SE TIMES ( UNC]TA9 EVID5CE & GUESS-WORK1 
      S9CE WE HAVE 9 LAT] TIMES SU* ABUNDANCE ( CLE> MAT]IAL = C>RY+ \T \R 
      9QUIRIES4 ,IT IS AT LEA/ PRETTY C]TA91 AS ,I HAVE ALREADY SAID1 ?AT ALL ! MORE 
      ELABORATE FIGUR$ HANG+S ACTUALLY MADE 9 ! NOR? ( ,EUROPE BE=E ! 5D ( 
      ! F\RTE5? C5TURY W]E WOV5 9 ! TAPE/RY LOOM2 A PIECE ( SU* WORK1 ,NOR? 
      ,G]MAN1 OR P]HAPS ,SC&9AVIAN1 ( ! BEG9N+ ( ! TWELF? C5TURY1 IS 
      PRES]V$ AT ! ,S\? ,K5S+TON ,MUSEUM1 & IS ITSELF A PORTION ( A L>G] PIECE 
      AT ,LYONS4 ,! DESIGN ( ?IS PIECE IS PRACTICALLY AN IMITATION 9 TAPE/RY ( ! 
      ME*ANICALLY WOV5 PATT]NS ( ! S\?-EA/ ( ,EUROPE2 ITS DESIGN BE+ ( ?AT 
      K9D ( CONTIGU\S CIRCLES 5CLOS+ MON/]S ( :I* ,I SPOKE BE=E4 ,IT IS WOR? 
      :ILE NOT+ ?AT PATT]NS ( EXACTLY ! SAME *>ACT] HAVE BE5 TRADITIONALLY 
      US$ 9 ,ICEL& TILL )9 ! LA/ HUNDR$ YE>S1 ONLY BY ?AT TIME !Y HAD GOT 
      TO BE DONE BY MEANS ( WOR/$ EMBROID]Y UPON L954 ,N[ ( C\RSE Y\ UND]/& 
      ?AT !SE TAPE/RY CLO?S W]E DONE ALWAYS = SPECIAL DECORATIVE PURPOSES1 = 
      WALL-HANG+S & CURTA9S1 ,I MEAN2 !IR ?ICK1 HEAVY1 & RIGID TEXTURE UNFITT+ 
      !M = USE AS G>M5T-CLO? TO ! SAME DEGREE ?AT IT W\LD FIT !M = USE AS 
      HANG+S4 ,AS ON ! ONE H& ! NOR!RN CRAFTSM51 :O HAD1 BY ! WAY1 TO WORK 
      *IEFLY 9 WOOL1 AS ,I HAVE REM>K$1 HAD NOT LE>N$ ! SPECIAL MY/]Y ( ! 
      ME*ANICAL FIGURE-WEAV] FROM ! ,EA/1 SO ALSO ?IS K9D ( WALL-HANG+ W\LD BE 
      LIKELY 9 ! COLD1 DAMP CLIMATE ( ! ,NOR? TO TAKE ! PLACE ( ! 
      WALL-PICTURES :I* SO COMMONLY DECORAT$ IMPORTANT BUILD+S 9 ! S\? ( 
      ,EUROPE4 ,?IS 9 FACT HAPP5$1 & ! USE ( TAPE/RY HANG+S GREW COMMON] AS 
      PICTURES GREW MORE ELABORATE2 ! E>LI] PICTUR$ TAPE/RY HANG+S P>TOOK ( ! 
      SIMPLICITY ( ! PA9T+S ( ! TIME1 AS ONE CAN CLE>LY SEE BY ! ONE OR TWO 
      PRECI\S RELICS ( ?AT P]IOD :I* WE HAVE LEFT4 ,!SE SIMPLE PICTUR$ CLO?S 
      W]E NO D\BT WOV5 ALL OV] ! NOR? ( ,EUROPE1 BUT ONE ( ! *IEF PLACES ( 
      MANUFACTURE 9 ! ?IRTE5? & F\RTE5? C5TURIES WAS ,P>IS4 ,I HAVE M5TION$ 
      ! $ICTS ( ! TIME ( ,S4 ,L\IS :I* %[ ?AT ! CRAFT ( TAPE/RY-WEAV+1 
      TAPISS]IE A LA HAUTE LISSE AS !Y CALL IT1 WAS AN IMPORTANT CRAFT 
      AT ?AT TIME4 ,LAT] ON1 9 ! SECOND HALF ( ! F\RTE5? C5TURY1 ! 
      TAPE/RY-WEAV]S >E FREQU5TLY M5TION$ AT ,>RAS 7:I* CITY1 AS Y\ KN[1 HAS 
      GIV5 ITS NAME TO ! :OLE >T71 ,T\RNAI1 ,VAL5CI5NES1 ,LILLE1 & ,D\AI2 
      ,FL&]S1 9 FACT1 WAS TAK+ ! PLACE 9 TAPE/RY-WEAV+ :I* IT FILL$ TO ! 
      5D4 ,9 ! LA/ YE>S ( ! F\RTE5? C5TURY !RE IS MU* M5TION MADE ( ! 
      CRAFT1 & ! NAMES ( TWO DESIGN]S >E M5TION$1 ,JOHN ( ,BRUGES & ,NI*OLAS 
      ,BATTAILLES1 :O W]E BO? 9 ! EMPLOYM5T ( ,*>LES ! ,FIF? ( ,FRANCE4 
     
     

      ,!RE IS =TUNATELY A PIECE ( TAPE/RY /ILL 9 EXI/5CE ( ?IS P]IOD1 A 
      PORTION ( A GREAT HANG+ MADE = ! ,CA!DRAL ( ,ANG]S4 ,IT REPRES5TS SC5ES 
      FROM ! ,APOCALYPSE1 >RANG$ 9 FRAMES & DIVID$ BY FIGURES ( ! PROPHETS 
      TWICE ! SIZE ( LIFE2 IT IS A GR& & MONUM5TAL WORK1 SEV]E 9 /YLE1 & 
      DECID$LY BELONG+1 ESPECIALLY AS TO ITS S*EME ( DECORATION1 TO ! F\RTE5? 
      RA!R ?AN ! FIFTE5? C5TURY1 ?\< IT WAS NOT F9I%$ TILL AB\T #a#d#e#c4 ,( 
      AB\T ! SAME P]IOD >E C]TA9 CLO?S MADE 9 ,G]MANY ON A SMALL SCALE1 NOT 
      ABOVE F\R FEET HI< OR SO4 ,!SE >E QUA9T & PLAYFUL 9 SUBJECT & DESIGN1 & 
      HAVE A DOME/IC SORT ( LOOK AB\T !M2 9 FACT ,I ?9K !Y W]E MADE 9 ! 
      H\SES !Y W]E 9T5D$ TO DECORATE4 ,! SUBJECTS >E *IEFLY SECUL>2 SC5ES 
      FROM ROMANCES1 SPORTS & PA/IMES1 ! OCCUPATIONS ( ! MON?S1 & SO =?2 
      !Y W]E PROBABLY MEANT = :AT W]E CALL$ DORS>S1 ?AT IS1 CLO?S TO HANG AT 
      ! BACKS ( ! D9]S' B5*ES 9 ! HALL2 ! ,S\? ,K5S+TON ,MUSEUM HAS SOME 
      GOOD SPECIM5S ( !SE4 
     
     

      ,FROM ! MIDDLE ( ! FIFTE5? C5TURY ! >T ( TAPE/RY-WEAV+ W5T ON 
      VIGOR\SLY1 & WE HAVE MANY SPECIM5S LEFT US ( ! TIME1 AT LEA/ ( ! LATT] 
      HALF ( ! C5TURY4 ,IT MAY 9T]E/ Y\ TO HE> :AT SOME ( ! SUBJECTS ( ! 
      TAPE/RIES W]E :I* ,SIR ,JOHN ,FA/OLF LEFT BEH9D HIM AT ,CAI/OR 9 ,NORFOLK4 ,Y\ 
      MU/ REMEMB] HE WAS A P[]FUL C\NTRY G5TLEMAN1 SAY ( .<!.> SECOND RANK4 
      0,IMPRIMIS J CLO! ( ,>RAS1 CLIPP$ ! S*IPH]DS CLO!4 ,ITEM J ( ! 
      ,ASSUMPTION ( ,\RE ,LADY444 ,ITEM J CLO! ( ,I,X ,CONQU]\RIS10 ! ,N9E ,WOR?IES1 
      D\BTLESS4 0,ITEM J CLO! ( ! ,SIEGE ( ,FALEYS = ! WE/ SIDE ( ! HALL4 
      ,ITEM J CLO! ( ,>RAS ) ,I,I,I >*[AYS ON S*ET+ A DOKE 9 ! WAT] ) A 
      CROSSB[E4 ,ITEM J CLO! ( ,>RAS ) A G5TLEWOMAN H>P+ BY J CA/LE 9 ! 
      MID/ ( ! CLO!40 ,!RE >E A GREAT MANY MORE 9 ! 9V5TORY FROM :I* ?IS 
      IS TAK51 BUT !SE WILL S]VE AS SPECIM5S ( ! WOV5 DECORATIONS FROM ! WALLS 
      ( ,CAI/OR ,CA/LE 9 ! MIDDLE ( ! SIXTE5? C5TURY4 ,ONE ( ! F9E/ PIECES 
      ( TAPE/RY LEFT1 BY ! WAY1 Y\ WILL F9D UND] ! M9/RELS' GALL]Y 9 ! 
      ,GREAT ,HALL AT ,HAMPTON ,C\RT1 SOME:AT 9 ! D>K2 IT IS 9 GOOD PRES]VATION1 & 
      ! COLOR IS V]Y BEAUTIFUL2 ! DRAW+ IS BO? REF9$ & VIGOR\S1 MU* 
      RESEMBL+ 9 /YLE ! PIECE PRES]V$ AT ,B]NE :I* IS SAID TO HAVE BE5 
      DESIGN$ BY ,ROG] VAN D] ,WEYD54 ,( AB\T ! SAME P]IOD 7SAY #a#d#f7 IS A PIECE AT 
      ,S\? ,K5S+TON ,MUSEUM ( ! ?REE ,FATES /&+ ON A PRO/RATE LADY4 ,?IS 
      BEAUTIFUL PIECE IS A REPRES5TATIVE ( A P>TICUL>LY PLEAS+ K9D ( DECORATION1 
      :]E FIGURES >E 9TRODUC$ ON A BACKGR\ND ( CONV5TIONAL FL[]S2 ! F9E/ 
      SPECIM5 ( ?IS1 TO MY KN[L$GE IS 9 ONE ( ! SMALL] ROOMS AT ! ,HOTEL 
      DE ,CLUNY AT ,P>IS1 BUT UNLUCKILY ! GU>DIANS ( ?AT F9E MUSEUM HAVE NE>LY 
      HIDD5 IT ) HEAVY PIECES ( FURNITURE4 ,I ?9K WE MU/ CONSID] ?IS K9D ( 
      WORK AS BELONG+ 9 SPIRIT TO ! F\RTE5? C5TURY1 ?\< IT LA/$ RI<T 9TO 
      ! SIXTE5?4 
     
     

      ,WELL1 TAPE/RY W5T ON GETT+ MORE & MORE ELABORATE1 & REA*$ ITS TURN+ 
      PO9T AB\T ! FIR/ YE>S ( ! SIXTE5? C5TURY1 ( :I* P]IOD ! ,S\? 
      ,K5S+TON ,MUSEUM HAS N[1 ,I AM HAPPY TO SAY1 SOME V]Y NOBLE SPECIM5S1 EQUAL 9 
      FACT TO ANY ( ! TIME4 ,! TAPE/RY ( ?IS P]IOD1 H[EV]1 ?\< SO MU* MORE 
      LIKE A PICTURE ?AN ?AT ( ! E>LI] P]IOD AS TO BE CR[D$ ) FIGURES1 & 
      TO DEAL FREELY ) ALL EXPLANATORY ACCESSORIES1 H\SES1 *>IOTS1 L&SCAPES1 & 
      SO ON1 NEV]!LESS IS C>EFULLY DESIGN$ ON ! PR9CIPLES PROP] TO ! >T4 ,! 
      FIGURES >E >RANG$ 9 PLANES CLOSE UP TO ONE ANO!R1 & ! CLO? IS PRETTY 
      MU* FILL$ ) !M1 A MANN] :I* GIVES A PECULI> RI*NESS TO ! DESIGNS ( 
      ?IS P]IOD4 ,! OPPOS+ FAULT TO ?IS IS ! >RANGEM5T ( FIGURES & L&SCAPE 
      AS 9 A PICTURE PROP]1 ) =EGR\ND1 MIDDLE-DI/ANCE1 & DI/ANCE2 :I* PLAN 
      ( >RANGEM5T1 9 A WOV5 HANG+ 9 :I* ! PECULI> QUALITIES ( A PICTURE 
      MU/ BE LACK+1 GIVES A POOR UNFILL$-UP LOOK AT A F> GREAT] EXP5SE ( LABOR 
      & +5UITY ?AN W5T TO ! PRODUCTION ( ! MORE CONV5TIONAL >RANGEM5T4 
     
     

      ,WE HAVE N[ COME TO ! 5D ( ! ,GO?IC P]IOD ( ?IS NOBLE >T ( 
      PICTURE-WEAV+4 ,! MIDDLE ( ! SIXTE5? C5TURY SAW ! ABOVE-M5TION$ *ANGE 
      TAKE PLACE1 & !NCE=W>D ! FAULTS1 :I* ACCOMPANI$ ! DEGRADATION ( ALL 
      ! >TS FROM ?AT TIME ONW>D1 HAD !IR 9FLU5CE ON TAPE/RY1 :I*1 H[EV]1 
      DI$ H>D1 SO TO SAY4 ,UP TO ! FIR/ QU>T] ( ! SEV5TE5? C5TURY TAPE/RIES 
      W]E /ILL MADE1 :I*1 ?\< !Y HAD LO/ ALL ! ROMANCE & DIRECT BEAUTY ( 
      ! ,GO?IC P]IOD1 HAD SOME CLAIMS TO BE CONSID]$ DECORATIVE OBJECTS4 ,! 
      FOLL[+ P]IOD SAW ! EXECUTION ( WORKS AT AN 5ORM\S EXP5SE :I* W]E A 
      V]Y BAD SUB/ITUTE = ! YELL[-WA% ( A /ABLE4 ,UP TO ?IS TIME ! EXECUTION 
      AT LEA/ ( !SE PICTUR$ CLO?S HAD BE5 PURE & REASONABLE1 HAD NOT ATTEMPT$ 
      9 ANY WAY TO IMITATE ! EXECUTION ( ! BRU%4 ,BUT FROM ! TIMES ( ! ,GR& 
      ,MON>QUE & ! E/ABLI%M5T ( ?AT HAT*+-NE/ ( /UPIDITY1 ! ,GOBEL9S1 
      ALL ?AT WAS *ANG$1 & TAPE/RY WAS N[ NO LONG] A F9E >T1 BUT AN 
      UPHOL/]]'S TOY4 
     
     

      ,WE WILL LEAVE IT 9 ?AT MUD ( DEGRADATION TO HAVE A FEW WORDS ) ITS CONG5]1 
      C>PET-WEAV+4 ,N[ AS TAPE/RY WAS 5TIRELY A WE/]N >T1 SO IS C>PET-WEAV+ 
      ALTOGE!R AN EA/]N ONE4 ',TIS CLE>LY AN >T ( ! PEOPLES :O DWELL 9 T5TS OR 
      T5T-LIKE H\SES2 ( DUSKY ROOMS ) NO FURNITURE SAVE A FEW BEAUTIFUL POTS & A 
      GLEAM+ BRASS DI% OR SO2 ( DRY C\NTRIES :]E MUD IS A R>E TREASURE RES]V$ 
      = ! SIDES ( WELLS OR TANKS1 & :]E PEOPLE KICK (F !IR SLIPP]S & WALK 
      B>EFOOT :5 !Y COME 9TO A H\SE4 
     
     

      ,I ?9K IT IS A D\BTFUL PO9T AS TO :E!R C>PETS PROP] W]E MADE 9 ,EUROPE 
      BE=E ! SEV5TE5? C5TURY2 AL?\< SOME LE>N$ M5 ?9K ?AT ! 
      TAPISS]IES S>RACE-NOISES M5TION$ 9 ! $ICTS ( ,L\IS ! ,N9?'S 
      TIME W]E TRUE PIL$ C>PET-WORK1 & IT MU/ BE SAID ?AT !IR REASON+ SEEMS 
      RA!R CONV9C+4 ,ANYH[1 !RE IS NO DIRECT EVID5CE ( C>PET-MAK+ 9 M$IEVAL 
      ,EUROPE1 :]E1 AS A MATT] ( C\RSE1 FOOT-C>PETS W\LD BE LITTLE US$ 9 ! 
      R\< & V]Y \T-(-DOOR LIFE !N L$2 BUT FROM ! MIDDLE ( ! FIFTE5? 
      C5TURY !RE IS ABUNDANT EVID5CE ( ! IMPORTATION ( EA/]N C>PETS 9TO 
      ,EUROPE1 ! MO/ DIRECT & SATISFACTORY ( :I* IS GIV5 US BY ! PICTURES ( 
      ! P]IOD1 9 :I* SU* GOODS >E (T5 FIGUR$2 !SE %[ US C>PETS1 D\BTLESS 
      MADE 9 ,ASIA ,M9OR1 ( GEOMETRICAL DESIGNS ALWAYS1 ! PROTOTYPES ( :I* W]E 
      OBVI\SLY FLOOR-MOSAICS2 BO? ! ,FLEMI% PA9T]S & ! ,ITALIAN PA9T !SE 
      ?+S ) MU* ACCURACY & 5JOYM5T4 ,BUT BESIDES !SE C>PETS !RE WAS 
      UND\BT$LY ANO!R K9D ( DESIGN BE+ C>RI$ \T AT ! TIME1 :OSE 
      HEADQU>T]S WAS ,ISPAHAN 9 ,P]SIA3 ?IS K9D ( DESIGN WAS ELABORATE1 FL[+1 & 
      F\ND$ ON FLORAL =MS1 V]Y COMMONLY M+L$ ) ANIMALS & SOMETIMES ) 
      HUMAN FIGURES2 9 %ORT1 ! GEOMETRICALLY DESIGN$ C>PETS ABOVE M5TION$ HAVE A 
      DIRECT ANALOGY ) ! E>LI] ,BYZANT9E SILK /UFFS AS TO DESIGN1 & ?IS 
      FL[+ ,P]SIAN /YLE ) ! FRE] DESIGNS :I* W]E WOV5 9 ! LOOMS ( 
      ,PAL]MO4 ,( !SE LATT] FL[]$ C>PETS ,I DO NOT PRET5D TO FIX ! DATES ) 
      ANY ACCURACY1 BUT AMONG ! SPECIM5S ,I HAVE SE51 ,I WILL UND]TAKE TO SAY ?AT 
      !RE >E REPRES5TATIVES ( AT LEA/ ?REE DIFF]5T /YLES BE=E ! DEGRADATION 
      ( ! >T2 ! FIR/ BE+ A PURE1 FL[+ /YLE1 FOLL[+ CLOSELY 9 DETAIL ! 
      =MS ( ! F9E/ ORI5TAL >*ITECTURAL WORK1 = 9/ANCE1 ! PLA/] ORNAM5T 
      AT ,CAIRO2 ! NEXT AFFECT+ MU* ! SAME DETAIL1 BUT BL5D$ ) ANIMAL =MS2 
      ! ?IRD PURELY FLORAL1 FL[+1 & V]Y FANTA/IC & +5I\S 9 ! 
      CON/RUCTION ( ITS PATT]NS4 ,?IS LA/ ,I ?9K BR+S US 9 DATE TO AB\T ! TIME 
      ( ,%AH ,ABBAS 7! UPHOLD] ( ! GREATNESS ( ! RE/OR$ ,P]SIAN MON>*Y AB\T 
      ! TIME ( \R ,QUE5 ,ELIZABE?7 & HIS IMM$IATE SUCCESSORS1 ?AT IS1 FROM #aee 
      TO #afe OR SO4 ,AFT] ?AT ! DEGRADATION BEGAN1 BUT IT TOOK A V]Y DIFF]5T =M1 
      AS ALWAYS IS ! CASE ) EA/]N >T1 FROM :AT IT W\LD HAVE DONE 9 ,EUROPE1 
      :]E ALL DEGRADATION ( >T VEILS ITSELF 9 ! SEMBLANCE ( AN 9TELLECTUAL 
      ADVANCE2 9 ! ,EA/1 ON ! CONTR>Y1 HA/E1 CLUMS9ESS1 RUD5ESS1 & ! 
      DE/RUCTION ( ANY 9TELLECTUAL QUALITIES >E ! SIGNS ( DEGRADATION2 A T5D5CY 
      9 FACT TO M]E DIS9TEGRATION4 ,AS TO ?IS SPECIAL DEGRADATION ( ! C>PET-MAK+ 
      >T1 ! ?+ TO NOTE AB\T IT IS ?AT IT HAS AS ITS SUBJECT-MATT] ALL ! 
      DIFF]5T /YLES ,I HAVE M5TION$2 ! ,BYZANT9E OR FLOOR-MOSAIC /YLE1 ! FL[+ 
      F\RTE5?-C5TURY1 ! SCROLL & BEA/S /YLE1 & ! FLORAL /YLE4 ,FROM ! 
      DISJECTA MEMBRA ( !SE F\R >E KNOCK$ UP1 SO TO SAY1 ! TRADITIONAL 
      DESIGNS :I* >E F\ND 9 COMP>ATIVELY MOD]N EA/]N C>PETS1 :I* 9 SPITE ( 
      ALL DEGRADATION >E /ILL G5]ALLY V]Y BEAUTIFUL ?+S1 NOT ALTOGE!R LACK+ 
      9 SOME S5SE ( LOGICAL CONGRUITY1 & G5]ALLY GOOD 9 COLOR4 
     
     

      ,IT W\LD BE AN 5DLESS TASK TO FOLL[ ALL ! RAMIFICATIONS ( ?IS >T 9 ! 
      ,EA/2 BUT ,I MU/ JU/ SAY ?AT ! ,MUSSULMAN CONQU]ORS ( ,9DIA C>RI$ IT TO ?AT 
      P59SULA1 :]E IT TOOK ROOT & FL\RI%$ TILL QUITE \R [N DAYS1 *IEFLY US+ 
      ! MORE FLORAL SIDE ( ,P]SIAN DESIGN1 BUT 9 SOME PLACES CURI\SLY BL5D+ ) 
      ITS =MS TAK5 FROM ! NATIVE >T1 ,BUDDHI/ & ,BRAHM9ICAL1 & 9 O!RS 
      9FECT$ BY ! ECC5TRIC >T ( MOD]N ,*9A4 ,MOD]N COMM]CIALISM HAS LAID ITS 
      POISON\S T\* UPON ?IS USEFUL 9DU/RY S9CE ! DAYS :5 ,I WAS A Y\NG MAN1 
      & TO-DAY IT IS ALMO/ RU9$ AS AN >T2 ?OSE IMPORT]S :O HAVE ANY TA/E HAV+ 
      TO EX]CISE GREAT PA9S & PATI5CE 9 GETT+ FAIR SPECIM5S ( IT = SALE AT 
      HOME4 
     
     

      ,I HAVE N[ GONE BRIEFLY ?R\< ! TALE ( WOV5 ORNAM5T1 BUT BE=E ,I SAY A FEW 
      WORDS ON :AT MAY BE CALL$ ! >TI/IC E?ICS ( ?IS >T1 ,I MU/ V]Y HURRI$LY 
      SPEAK TO Y\ ( ! >T ( DYE+1 S9CE UPON ?AT IS F\ND$ ALL ! ORNAM5TAL 
      *>ACT] ( TEXTILE FABRICS4 ,9 DO+ SO ,I WILL = CONV5I5CE' SAKE USE ! 
      PRES5T T5SE1 BUT MU/ ASK Y\ TO TRANSLATE IT 9TO ! PA/1 AS ?IS >T MO/ ( 
      ALL AMONG ! SUBSIDI>Y ONES HAS BE5 TURN$ 9TO A TRADE1 EV5 TO ! EXT5T ?AT 
      ! PUBLIC IS BEG9N+ TO BE CONSCI\S ( ITS LOSS 9 ?IS RESPECT1 ?\< IT IS 
      QUITE HELPLESS TO REM$Y IT2 ALSO ,I MU/ ASK Y\ TO REMEMB] ?AT ,I AM SPEAK+ AS 
      A DY] & NOT A SCI5TIFIC P]SON4 
     
     

      ,BLUE1 R$1 YELL[1 & BR[N >E ! NECESS>Y COLORS FROM :I* A DY] MAKES ALL 
      HIS %ADES1 H[EV] NUM]\S2 ALL !SE COLORS >E FURNI%$ BY NATURAL 
      SUB/ANCES1 :I* HAVE1 H[EV]1 TO BE MODIFI$ BY ! DY]'S1 OR1 IF Y\ WILL1 
      *EMI/'S +5UITY4 ,( BLUES !RE IS ONLY ONE REAL DYE1 9DIGO1 TO WIT2 ?IS DYE 
      9 ! ANCI5T CLASSICAL & ! ,EUROPEAN M$IEVAL C\NTRIES WAS OBTA9$ FROM 
      WOAD1 ! ,G]MANIC NAME = AN 9DIG(]\S PLANT1 :I* CAN BE GR[N 9 RI* SOILS 
      AS F> NOR? AT LEA/ AS ,L9COLN%IRE2 :]EAS ! TRUE 9DIGO CAN ONLY BE GR[N 9 
      TROPICAL OR SUB-TROPICAL C\NTRIES4 ,9DIGO1 AS LONG AS IT KEEPS ITS COLOR & 
      NATURE1 IS 9SOLUBLE & !RE=E UNFIT = DYE+2 IT HAS !RE=E TO BE TURN$ 
      9TO :ITE 9DIGO BY MEANS ( DEOXIDATION1 :I* IS EFFECT$ 7,I MU/ BE BRIEF & 
      NOT EXHAU/IVE H]E7 *IEFLY BY F]M5TATION2 ! :ITE 9DIGO IS !N SOLUBLE BY 
      ALKALIES4 ,?IS DEOXIDATION IS CALL$ BY ! DY]S 0SETT+ ! BLUE VAT02 & ?IS 
      SETT+ BY MEANS ( F]M5TATION1 ! OLDE/ & BE/ WAY1 IS A V]Y TICKLI% JOB1 
      & ! CAPACITY ( DO+ SO 9DICATES ! PA/ MA/] ( DYE+4 
     
     

      ,! NEXT COLOR 9 IMPORTANCE IS R$2 TWO K9DS ( SUB/ANCES PRODUCE IT4 ,FIR/ ! 
      P[D]$ ROOT ( PLANTS1 CALL$ 9 ! ,G]MANIC TONGUES MADD]2 ( ! 
      MADD]-PRODUC+ PLANTS !RE >E SEV]AL K9DS1 = 9/ANCE1 CLAV]S OR GOOSE 
      GRASS1 GALIUM V]UM 7,\R ,LADY'S B$-/RAW7 & WOOD-RUFF1 BUT !Y >E ALL POOR 9 
      DYE+ MATT]1 ! TRUE MADD] HAV+ TO BE C>EFULLY CULTIVAT$ 9 GOOD SOIL4 
      ,SECONDLY1 !RE >E ! 9SECT R$S2 K]MES OR COCCUS1 ! SC>LET ( ! ANCI5TS1 
      :I* LIVES1 OR GR[S RA!R1 ON A PRICKLY OAK ON ! ,M$IT]RANEAN %ORES1 ! LAC 
      9SECT1 *IEFLY 9 ,9DIA1 & CO*9EAL 9 ,MEXICO & ,S\? ,AM]ICA4 ,( !SE1 
      MADD] DYES A DULLI% BLOOD-R$2 K]MES1 A C5TRAL R$ T5D+ T[>DS SC>LET2 
      LAC1 A CO>SE1 VIOL5T SC>LET2 & CO*9EAL 7US$ V>I\SLY71 CRIMSON & 
      SC>LET4 
     
     

      ,NEXT COMES YELL[1 :I* IS VEGETABLE AGA91 & AGA9  
      ( TWO K9DS2 ONE BRI<T 
      YELL[ FROM LEMON UPW>DS1 ! O!R BR[N YELL[2 WELD IS ! REPRES5TATIVE ( 
      ! FIR/2 ! O!R >E EXTRACT$ FROM WOOD B>KS *IEFLY1 & >E ALL MORE OR 
      LESS A/R+5T4 ,N[ !SE R$S & YELL[S >E DYES ( A V]Y DIFF]5T QUALITY 
      FROM 9DIGO2 ! TEXTILE FIB]S HAVE LITTLE OR NO AFF9ITY = !M1 & HAVE 
      BE=E !Y >E DY$ ) !M TO BE IMPREGNAT$ ) M9]AL  
      "9 SUB/ANCES = :I* 
      ! DYES HAVE AN AFF9ITY2 !SE >E PR9CIPALLY ALUM9A & T94 ,SO US$ WE CALL 
      !SE METALS MORDANTS2 ! WIDE/ SPREAD & MO/ ANCI5T MORDANT IS ! ALUM ( 
      COMM]CE4 ,! FIB]S BE+ /EEP$ OR BOIL$ 9 !SE MORDANTS1 ! DYE+ =MS A 
      LAKE ON ! SURFACE ( ! FIB]1 & ! TRICK IS DONE4 ,! BR[NS >E1 FIR/LY1 
      VEGETABLE A/R+5TS2 ! EXTRACT ( WALNUT ROOT OR WALNUT HULLS IS ! 
      REPRES5TATIVE ( ?AT3 & SECONDLY1 M9]AL1 FROM ! SOLUTION ( IRON1 ! OXIDE 
      ( :I*1 ?AT IS TO SAY YELL[ O*]1 CAN BE =M$ ON FIB]1 & IS ESPECIALLY 
      USEFUL 9 COTTON & L95 DYE+ AS A BR[NI%1 YELL[1 OR BUFF DYE4 ,! O!R 
      COLORS >E MADE BY MIXTURES ( ?OSE ABOVE2 GRE51 = 9/ANCE1 IS FIR/ DY$ 9 
      ! BLUE VAT1 !N MORDANT$ & DY$ YELL[2 PURPLE1 BLUE VAT AGA91 MORDANT$ & 
      DY$ R$2 BLACK1 BLUE VAT1 MORDANT & R$1 MORDANT & YELL[1 OR BLUE VAT & 
      BR[N4 ,! BLUE VAT HAS TO BE CONT9UALLY 9 USE = OBTA9+ ALL K9DS ( 
      SUB-%ADES4 
     
     

      ,ONE FAM\S & HI/ORICAL DYE HAS BE5 EXT9CT = HUNDR$S ( YE>S1 ! ANCI5T 
      PURPLE1 ! USE ( :I* SEEMS TO HAVE DI$ \T 9 ! E>LIE/ ,MIDDLE ,AGES2 IT WAS 
      EXTRACT$ FROM C]TA9 %ELL-FI%1 & WAS A V]Y P]MAN5T & BEAUTIFUL DYE1 
      V>Y+ 9 %ADE FROM VIOLET TO A F9E1 SOLID1 & SOME:AT SOMB] R$-PURPLE4 
     
     

      ,Y\ MU/ BE MORE C>EFUL TO DI/+UI% ?IS DYE FROM ! O!R FAM\S ANCI5T ONE 
      ?AN SOME ( ! POETS HAVE BE54 ,?IS IS ! ,AL-K]MES OR COCCUS ABOVE M5TION$1 
      :I* PRODUCES ) AN ORD9>Y ALUM9\S MORDANT A C5TRAL R$1 TRUE V]MILION1 
      & ) A GOOD DOSE ( ACID A FULL SC>LET1 :I* IS ! SC>LET ( ! ,MIDDLE 
      ,AGES1 & WAS US$ TILL AB\T ! YE> #a#f#e#f1 :5 A ,DUT* *EMI/ DISCOV]$ ! 
      SECRET ( GETT+ A SC>LET FROM CO*9EAL BY ! USE ( T91 & SO PRODUC$ A 
      *EAP]1 BRI<T]1 & UGLI] SC>LET1 MU* TO ! SATISFACTION ( ! CIVILIZ$ 
      WORLD2 :I* HAS1 = ! LA/ ?REE HUNDR$ YE>S1 ALWAYS GREET$ ) 5?USIASM 
      EV]Y 9V5TION :I* T5DS TO MAKE ITS CLO!S & DWELL+S UGLI] & MORE 
      9CONV5I5T4 ,I REGRET ?AT ,I HAVE BUT A %ORT SPACE TO SAY A V]Y FEW WORDS AB\T 
      ! LA/ TEXTILE :I* ,I M5TION$ TO Y\1 DYE-PA9T$ OR PR9T$ CLO?1 TO WIT1 
      & AB\T :I* ,I C\LD H>DLY SAY ANY?+ TILL ,I HAD GIV5 ! =EGO+ %ORT 
      ACC\NT ( DYE+1 ) :I* >T IT IS 9TIMATELY CONNECT$4 ,I HAVE M5TION$ ! 
      FACT ?AT ,PL9Y MAKES IT CLE> TO US ?AT ?IS >T WAS KN[N TO ! ANCI5T 
      ,EGYPTIANS2 BUT IT MO/ PROBABLY HAD ITS ORIG9 9 ,9DIA1 A C\NTRY ( ALL O!RS 
      FITTE/ = FOLL[+ ! >T ON ACC\NT ( ITS PECULI> CLIMATE & ITS WEAL? ( 
      DYE+ MAT]IALS2 :E!R OR NOT ! >T WAS PRACTIC$ 9 M$IEVAL ,EUROPE 9 ANY 
      =M IS D\BTFUL1 BUT IT DOES APPE> AT LEA/ POSSIBLE ?AT SOME ( ! 0/A9$ 
      CLO?S0 :I* WE HAVE (T5E/ SUPPOS$ TO BE M]ELY PIGM5T PA9T+ 9 DI/EMP] 
      W]E DYE-PA9T$4 ,9 ! MIDDLE ( ! SIXTE5? C5TURY ! >T WAS FIRMLY 
      E/ABLI%$ 9 ,P]SIA1 :OSE ELEGANT & BEAUTIFUL PATT]N-DESIGN+ FROM ?AT TIME 
      =? HAS MADE C]TA9 =MS ( ORNAM5T QUITE FAMILI> TO US 9 ! *9TZES ?AT 
      W]E FREELY IMPORT$ 9TO ,5GL& FROM ! 5D ( ! SEV5TE5? C5TURY ONW>D2 
      = IT GOES ALMO/ )\T SAY+ ?AT ?IS ,P]SIAN ORNAM5T CONQU]$ EV]Y?+ 
      ( COTTON PR9T+ 9 ,9DIA1 EXCEPT ! CLO?S :I* W]E MADE = SPECIAL 
      PURPOSES1 FIGUR$ ) ! P]SONAGES & SC5ES ( ! ,BRAHM9 MY?OLOGY4 ,IT IS 
      H>DLY WOR? :ILE AS AN >TI/ GO+ 9TO ! HI/ORY ( ?IS >T 9 ,EUROPE2 S9CE 
      :ATEV] WAS REALLY F9E 9 IT WAS LITTLE MORE ?AN A LIT]AL COPY ( ,9DIAN OR 
      ,P]SIAN ORIG9ALS2 ( :I* LATT] ONE MAY SAY ?AT ! PECULI>ITIES ( ! 
      MANUFACTURE GAVE OPPORTUNITIES = SPECIAL FRE$OM ( DESIGN & V]Y BEAUTIFUL 
      COLOR1 F\ND$ ON ! TWO MO/ IMPORTANT DYE+ DRUGS1 MADD] & 9DIGO4 
     
     

      ,I DID NOT MEAN FROM ! FIR/ TO 9CLUDE ! PLEAS+ >T ( EMBROID]Y 9 ?IS 
      DISC\RSE ON TEXTILES2 SO H]E WE WILL 5D \R SKET*1 & WILL CONCLUDE ) V]Y 
      LI<TLY CONSID]+ ! >TI/IC E?ICS ( ! SUBJECT1 AS ,I PROMIS$4 ,DON'T BE 
      AL>M$1 IT IS BUT A WORD OR TWO AS TO ! G5]AL QUALITY ( ! DESIGN ( 
      TEXTILES 9 GOOD P]IODS4 ,Y\ WILL F9D ?AT :ATEV] M]IT !RE MAY BE 9 TEXTILE 
      ORNAM5T FL[S ALWAYS FROM AN 9/9CT = ! FIT USE ( MAT]IAL AMONG M5 ( 
      SIMPLE & MANLY LIVES2 :I* 9/9CT IS SO /RONG 9 PURE TIMES ( >T1 ?AT ITS 
      EFFECTS >E MO/ OBVI\S TO US :5 ! DESIGN]1 :O 9 ?OSE DAYS WAS ALSO ! 
      WEAV]1 WAS ?9K+ LEA/ ( HIS MAT]IALS1 :5 HE WAS WRAPP$ UP 9 ! 
      9V5TION ( HIS DESIGN & ! BEAUTY ( ITS HUES2 IT WAS 9 SECOND-RATE TIMES ( 
      DESIGN1 SU* AS 9 ?AT P]IOD ( SPL5DID ,FLOR5T9E VELVET-WEAV+ ,I HAVE TOLD 
      Y\ (1 ?AT ! MAT]IAL WAS AS MU* ?\<T ( AS ! DESIGN1 OR IT MAY BE MORE 
      SO2 :5 9 FACT ! DESIGN WAS US$ = ! DISPLAY ( SPL5DOR ( MAT]IAL4 
     
     

      ,9 ! TIMES ( ! DEGRADATION ( ! >T1 ) ! HI/ORY ( :I* ,I HAVE NOT 
      ?\<T IT WOR? :ILE TO TR\BLE Y\1 PEOPLE BY EXAGG]AT+ ?IS FAULT FELL 9TO 
      ANO!R :I* SEEMS AT FIR/ SI<T ALMO/ ! OPPOSITE ONE2 !Y GRADUALLY =GOT 
      ?AT ! MAT]IAL HAD ANY?+ TO DO ) ! DESIGN AT ALL1 9 FACT !Y (T5 
      SP5T TIME & PA9S TO MAKE1 = 9/ANCE1 WOV5 SILK LOOK LIKE PR9T$ PAP] & 
      SO =?4 ,MOREOV] 9 ! F9E TIME ( >T :AT ! DESIGN] ?\<T ( WAS ALWAYS 
      9 SOME WAY TO APPEAL TO ! IMAG9ATION2 9 O!R WORDS1 TO TELL SOME /ORY1 
      H[EV] IMP]FECTLY2 HE HAD NOT TIME1 !RE=E1 = ! PETTY +5UITIES ( ! 
      LAT] DAYS1 HE WAS DET]M9$ TO LET US KN[ :AT HE HAD 9 HIS M9D1 & HE1 
      UNCONSCI\SLY MAYBE1 WELL UND]/OOD ?AT HE WAS TO USE FAIR COLOR & BEAUTIFUL 
      =M 9 ! SIMPLE/ & MO/ DIRECT WAY 9 ORD] TO C>RY \T HIS PURPOSE4 ,SO 
      TREAT$1 ! DESIGN ( EV5 A SCRAP ( CLO? BECOMES ELEVAT$ BY HUMAN 
      9TELLIG5CE1 & HAS 9 ITS HUMBLE WAY DI/9CT 9TELLECTUAL VALUE2 IT BECOMES A 
      ?+ :I* NO 9TELLIG5T UNPREJUDIC$ MAN HAS ANY RI<T TO PASS BY ) CONTEMPT1 
      AS A PIECE ( M]E FRIVOLITY2 & ,I MU/ SAY PO9T BLANK1 ?AT UNLESS WE CAN 
      ELEVATE \R DESIGN 9TO ?IS REGION ( FANCY & IMAG9ATION1 WE W]E BETT] TO 
      HAVE NO ORNAM5T AT ALL2 = TO MY M9D AS A M]E COMM]CIAL NECESSITY1 A BIT ( 
      TRADE F9I%1 IT IS UNSPEAKABLY CONTEMPTIBLE4 ,Y\ MAY EASILY IMAG9E ?AT ,I HAVE 
      NOT TIME TO GIVE Y\ ANY H9TS AS TO ! WAY ( ELEVAT+ \R ORNAM5T ON W>ES1 
      NOR P]HAPS W\LD ?IS BE QUITE ! BE/ PLACE 9 :I* TO TREAT ! SUBJECT1 :I* 
      IT SEEMS TO ME IF PROP]LY TREAT$ W\LD LEAD US 9TO V]Y S]I\S MATT]S 9DE$4 
     
     

      ,ONE H9T1 H[EV]1 ,I %\LD LIKE TO GIVE Y\2 ,I AM MYSELF AN ORNAM5TALI/1 A MAK] 
      ( W\LD-BE PRETTY ?+S4 ,YET ,I WILL NOT TRY TO PRESS ON Y\ ! FACT ?AT !RE 
      IS NO?+ LIKE LEA!R2 RA!R1 ,I W\LD SAY1 BE CAUTI\S ( OV]-ORNAM5T+ Y\R 
      H\SES & Y\R LIVES ) *EAP UN5DUR+ PRETT9ESS2 HAVE AS FEW ?+S AS Y\ 
      CAN1 = Y\ MAY BE SURE ?AT SIMPLICITY IS ! F\NDATION ( ALL WOR?Y >T2 BE 
      SURE ?AT :ATEV] ORNAM5T Y\ HAVE IS PROP] & REASONABLE = ! SORT ( LIFE 
      Y\ WANT TO LEAD1 & DON'T BE L$ BY ! NOSE BY FA%ION 9TO HAV+ ?+S Y\ 
      DON'T WANT4 ,9 LOOK+ =W>D T[>DS ANY UTOPIA ( ! >TS1 ,I DO NOT CONCEIVE TO 
      MYSELF ( !RE BE+ A V]Y GREAT QUANTITY ( >T ( ANY K9D1 C]TA9LY NOT ( 
      ORNAM5T1 AP>T FROM ! PURELY 9TELLECTUAL >TS2 & EV5 ?OSE MU/ NOT SWALL[ 
      UP TOO MU* ( LIFE4 ,AS TO ORNAM5TAL >T 7SO CALL$71 ,I CAN1 UND] \R PRES5T 
      CONDITIONS1 LOOK+ =W>D FROM \T ( ! F>RAGO ( RUBBI% ) :I* WE >E 
      N[ SURR\ND$1 *IEFLY SEE POSSIBLE NEGATIVE VIRTUES 9 ! EXT]NALS ( \R 
      H\SEHOLD GOODS2 CAN SEE !M NEV] %ABBY1 PRET5TI\S1 OR UNG5]\S1 NATURAL & 
      REASONABLE ALWAYS2 BEAUTIFUL ALSO1 BUT MORE BECAUSE !Y >E NATURAL & REASONABLE 
      ?AN BECAUSE WE HAVE SET AB\T TO MAKE !M BEAUTIFUL4 ,WE NE$ NOT ?9K ?AT ?IS 
      WILL BE AN EASY MATT] TO BR+ AB\T1 BUT :5 IT IS BR\<T AB\T1 ,I DO BELIEVE 
      ?AT SOME SORT ( G5U9E >T & ORNAM5T WILL ACCOMPANY IT1 IT MAY BE 9 RA!R A 
      ,SP>TAN WAY AT FIR/2 FROM ?AT TIME ONW>D WE %ALL HAVE >T 5\<1 & %ALL 
      HAVE BECOME SO DEC5T & REASONABLE1 ?AT EV]Y H\SEHOLD WILL HAVE BECOME A 
      QUIET1 DAILY1 UNADV]TIS$ ,HEAL? ,EXHIBITION4 
     
     

      "9 ,OR SOMETIMES1 AS 9 CO*9EAL SC>LET DYE+1  
      ! MORDANT IS MIX$ ) ! DIP BA?4 BACK 
  
       ,BIBLIOGRAPHICAL ,NOTE 
     
     
       ,TITLE 
     
     

    ,TEXTILE ,FABRICS  
    
    
        ,DELIV]IES 
    
    #a#a? ,JULY #ahhd AT ! ,9T]NATIONAL ,HEAL? ,EXHIBITION AT ! ,S\? ,K5S+TON ,MUSEUM1 ,LONDON 
     
         ,PUBLICATION 
    
   ,PUBLI%$ AS A PAMPHLET 5TITL$ ,TEXTILE ,FABRICS3 ,A ,LECTURE ,DELIV]$ 9 ! ,LECTURE ,ROOM ( ! ,EXHIBITION1 ,LONDON3 ,WILLIAM ,CL[ES1 #ahhd 
   ,PUBLI%$ 9 TWO P>TS BY ,! ,>*ITECT1 ON #a#i? ,JULY #ahhd 7PP4#d#c-#e7  & #b#f? ,JULY #ahhd 7PP4 #e-#e#c7 
    

,FROM 3 ,M>XI/S4ORG4 

,*RONOLOGY 3 
,FEBRU>Y #b1 #bba 3 ,TEXTILE ,FABRICS -- ,ADD$4 
,JANU>Y #g1 #bbb 3 ,TEXTILE ,FABRICS -- ,UPDAT$4 

 FILE G5]AT$ FROM 3  
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