,! ,>T ( ,DYE+ ,PEOPLE 3 ,AU?OR 3 ,WILLIAM ,MORRIS ,TEXT 3 ,DYE+ IS A V]Y ANCI5T >T2 FROM ! E>LIE/ TIMES ( ! ANCI5T CIVILIZATIONS TILL )9 AB\T =TY YE>S AGO !RE HAD BE5 NO ESS5TIAL *ANGE 9 IT1 & NOT MU* *ANGE ( ANY K9D4 ,UP TO ! TIME ( ! DISCOV]Y ( ! PROCESS ( ,PRUSSIAN-BLUE DYE+ 9 AB\T #aha 7IT WAS KN[N AS A PIGM5T ?IRTY OR =TY YE>S E>LI]71 ! ONLY *ANGES 9 ! >T W]E ! RESULT ( ! 9TRODUCTION ( ! ,AM]ICAN 9SECT DYE 7CO*9EAL71 :I* GRADUALLY SUP]S$$ ! ,EUROPEAN ONE 7K]MES71 & ! ,AM]ICAN WOOD-DYES N[ KN[N AS LOGWOOD & ,BRAZIL-WOOD3 ! LATT] DIFF]S LITTLE FROM ! ,ASIATIC & ,AFRICAN ,R$ ,SAUND]S1 & O!R R$ DYE-WOODS2 ! =M] HAS *EAP5$ & WORS5$ BLACK-DYE+1 9 SO F> AS IT HAS TAK5 ! PLACE ( ! 9DIGO-VAT AS A BASIS4 ,! ,AM]ICAN QU]CITRON B>K GIVES US ALSO A USEFUL ADDITIONAL YELL[ DYE4 ,!SE *ANGES1 & ONE OR TWO O!RS1 H[EV]1 DID LITTLE T[>DS REVOLUTIONIZ+ ! >T2 ?AT REVOLUTION WAS LEFT = \R [N DAYS1 & RESULT$ FROM ! DISCOV]Y ( :AT >E KN[N AS ! ,ANIL9E DYES1 D$UC$ BY A LONG PROCESS FROM ! PLANTS ( ! COAL-MEASURES4 ,( !SE DYES IT MU/ BE 5\< TO SAY ?AT !IR DISCOV]Y1 :ILE CONF]R+ ! GREATE/ HONOR ON ! AB/RACT SCI5CE ( *EMI/RY1 & :ILE DO+ GREAT S]VICE TO CAPITALI/S 9 !IR HUNT AFT] PR(ITS1 HAS T]RIBLY 9JUR$ ! >T ( DYE+1 & = ! G5]AL PUBLIC HAS NE>LY DE/ROY$ IT AS AN >T4 ,H5CE=W>D !RE IS AN ABSOLUTE DIVORCE BETWE5 ! COMM]CIAL PROCESS & ! >T ( DYE+4 ,ANY ONE WANT+ TO PRODUCE DY$ TEXTILE ) ANY >TI/IC QUALITY 9 !M MU/ 5TIRELY =GO ! MOD]N & COMM]CIAL ME?ODS 9 FAVOR ( ?OSE :I* >E AT LEA/ AS OLD AS ,PL9Y1 :O SPEAKS ( !M BE+ OLD 9 HIS TIME4 ,N[1 9 ORD] TO DYE TEXTILES 9 PATT]NS OR O!RWISE1 WE NE$ F\R COLORS TO />T ) - TO WIT1 BLUE1 R$1 YELL[1 & BR[N2 GRE51 PURPLE1 BLACK1 & ALL 9T]M$IATE %ADES CAN BE MADE FROM A MIXTURE ( !SE COLORS4 ,BLUE IS GIV5 US BY 9DIGO & WOAD1 :I* DO NOT DIFF] 9 COLOR 9 ! LEA/1 !IR *EMICAL PRODUCT BE+ ! SAME4 ,WOAD MAY BE CALL$ NOR!RN 9DIGO2 & 9DIGO TROPICAL OR SUB-TROPICAL WOAD4 ,NOTE ?AT UNTIL ! 9TRODUCTION ( ,PRUSSIAN BLUE AB\T #aha !RE WAS NO O!R BLUE DYE EXCEPT ?IS 9DIGOT9E ?AT C\LD BE CALL$ A DYE2 ! O!R BLUE DYES W]E M]E /A9S :I* W\LD NOT BE> ! SUN = MORE ?AN A FEW DAYS4 ,R$ IS YIELD$ BY ! 9SECT DYES K]MES1 LAC-DYE1 & CO*9EAL1 & BY ! VEGETABLE DYE MADD]4 ,( !SE1 K]MES IS ! K+2 BRILET 7E4G4 ! DRESS-COAT ( A L9E (FIC]74 ,MADD] YIELDS ON WOOL A DEEP-TON$ BLOOD-R$1 SOME:AT BRICKY & T5D+ TO SC>LET4 ,ON COTTON & L951 ALL IMAG9ABLE %ADES ( R$ ACCORD+ TO ! PROCESS4 ,IT IS NOT ( MU* USE 9 DYE+ SILK1 :I* IS APT TO ^*BL9D'2 I4E4 IT TAKES (F ! GLOSS4 ,LAC-DYE GIVES A HOT & NOT PLEASANT SC>LET1 AS MAY BE NOT$ 9 A PRIVATE MILITIAMAN'S COAT4 ,! ,FR5* L9]S' TR\S]S1 BY ! WAY1 >E1 OR W]E1 DY$ ) MADD]1 SO ?AT !IR C\NTRY-M5 SOMETIMES CALL !M ! ^*,MADD]-WE>]S'2 BUT !IR CLO? IS SOME:AT TOO *EAPLY DY$ TO DO CR$IT TO ! DRYSALT]Y4 ,BESIDES !SE P]MAN5T R$ DYES !RE >E O!RS PRODUC$ FROM WOODS1 CALL$ 9 ! ,MIDDLE ,AGES BY ! G5]AL NAME ( ^*,BRAZIL'2 :5CE ! NAME ( ! ,AM]ICAN C\NTRY1 BECAUSE ! CONQU]ORS F\ND SO MU* DYE+-WOOD GR[+ H]E4 ,SOME ( !SE WOOD-DYES >E V]Y BEAUTIFUL 9 COLOR2 BUT UNLUCKILY !Y >E NONE ( !M P]MAN5T1 AS Y\ MAY SEE BY EXAM9+ ! BEAUTIFUL /UFFS ( ! ?IRTE5? & F\RTE5? C5TURIES AT ! ,S\? ,K5S+TON ,MUSEUM1 9 :I* Y\ WILL SC>CELY F9D ANY R$1 BUT PL5TY ( FAWN COLOR1 :I* IS 9 FACT ! WOOD-R$ ( #e YE>S AGO ?US FAD$4 ,IF Y\ TURN FROM !M TO ! ,GO?IC TAPE/RIES1 & NOTE ! R$S 9 !M1 Y\ WILL HAVE ! MEASURE ( ! RELATIVE P]MAN5CE ( K]MES & ^*,BRAZIL1' ! TAPE/RY R$S BE+ ALL DY$ ) K]MES1 & /ILL RETA9+ ! GREAT] P>T ( !IR COLOR4 ,! M$IEVAL DY]S MU/ BE P>TLY EXCUS$1 H[EV]1 BECAUSE ^*,BRAZIL' IS ESPECIALLY A SILK DYE1 K]MES %>+ SOME:AT 9 ! ILL QUALITIES ( MADD] = SILK2 ?\< ,I HAVE DY$ SILK 9 K]MES & GOT V]Y BEAUTIFUL & P[]FUL COLORS BY MEANS ( IT4 ,YELL[ DYES >E *IEFLY GIV5 US BY WELD 7SOMETIMES CALL$ WILD MIGNONETTE71 QU]CITRON B>K 7ABOVE M5TION$71 & OLD FU/IC1 AN ,AM]ICAN DYE-WOOD4 ,( !SE WELD IS MU* ! PRETTIE/1 & IS ! YELL[ SILK DYE P> EXCELL5CE1 ?\< IT DYES WOOL WELL 5\<4 ,BUT YELL[ DYES >E ! COMMONE/ TO BE MET ) 9 NATURE1 & \R FIELDS & H$G][S BE> PL5TY ( GRE5+-WE$S1 AS \R =EFA!RS CALL$ !M1 S9CE !Y US$ !M *IEFLY = GRE5+ BLUE WOOL5 CLO?2 =1 AS Y\ MAY WELL BELIEVE1 !Y1 BE+ GOOD COLORI/S1 HAD NO GREAT TA/E = YELL[ WOOL5 /UFF4 ,DY]S'-BROOM1 SAW-WORT1 ! TWIGS ( ! POPL>1 ! OSI]1 & ! BIR*1 HEA!R1 BROOM1 FL[]S & TWIGS1 WILL ALL ( !M GIVE YELL[S ( MORE ( LESS P]MAN5CE4 ,( !SE ,I HAVE TRI$ POPL> & OSI] TWIGS1 :I* BO? GAVE A /RONG YELL[1 BUT ! =M] NOT A V]Y P]MAN5T ONE4 ,SPEAK+ G5]ALLY1 YELL[ DYES >E ! LEA/ P]MAN5T ( ALL1 AS ONCE MORE Y\ MAY SEE BY LOOK+ AT AN OLD TAPE/RY1 9 :I* ! GRE5S HAVE ALWAYS FAD$ MORE ?AN ! R$S OR BLUES2 ! BE/ YELL[ DYES1 H[EV]1 LOSE ONLY !IR BRIK BLUE & !N BR[N$ 9TO BLACK BY MEANS ( ! WALNUT-ROOT4 ,CATE*U1 ! 9SPISSAT$ JUICE ( A PLANT OR PLANTS1 :I* COMES TO US FROM ,9DIA1 ALSO GIVES RI* & USEFUL P]MAN5T BR[NS ( V>I\S %ADES4 ,GRE5 IS OBTA9$ BY DYE+ A BLUE ( ! REQUIR$ %ADE 9 ! 9DIGO-VAT1 & !N GRE5+ IT ) A GOOD YELL[ DYE1 ADD+ :AT ELSE MAY BE NECESS>Y 7AS1 E4G41 MADD]7 TO MODIFY ! COLOR ACCORD+ TO TA/E4 ,PURPLE IS GOT BY BLU+ 9 ! 9DIGO-VAT1 & AFT]W>DS BY A BA? ( CO*9EAL OR K]MES1 OR MADD]1 ALL 9T]M$IATE %ADES ( CL>ET & MURREY & RUSSET CAN BE GOT BY !SE DRUGS HELP$ \T BY ^*SADD5+4' ,BLACK1 AS A=ESAID1 IS BE/ MADE BY DYE+ D>K BLUE WOOL ) BR[N2 & WALNUT IS BETT] ?AN IRON = ! BR[N P>T1 BECAUSE ! IRON-BR[N IS APT TO ROT ! FIB]2 AS ONCE MORE Y\ WILL SEE 9 SOME PIECES ( OLD TAPE/RY OR OLD ,P]SIAN C>PETS1 :]E ! BLACK IS QUITE P]I%$1 OR AT LEA/ 9 ! CASE ( ! C>PET GONE D[N TO ! KNOTS4 ,ALL 9T]M$IATE %ADES CAN1 AS A=ESAID1 BE GOT BY ! BL5D+ ( !SE PRIME COLORS1 OR BY US+ WEAK BA?S ( !M4 ,= 9/ANCE1 ALL %ADES ( FLE% COLOR CAN BE GOT BY MEANS ( WEAK BA?S ( MADD] & WALNUT ^*SADD5+'2 MADD] OR CO*9EAL MIX$ ) WELD GIVES US ORANGE1 & ) SADD5+ ALL IMAG9ABLE %ADES BETWE5 YELL[ & R$1 9CLUD+ ! AMB]S1 MAIZE-COLOR1 ETC4 ,! CRIMSONS 9 ,GO?IC TAPE/RIES MU/ HAVE BE5 GOT BY DYE+ K]MES OV] PALE %ADES ( BLUE1 S9CE ! CRIMSON R$-DYE1 CO*9EAL1 HAD NOT YET COME TO ,EUROPE4 ,A WORD OR TWO 75TIRELY UNSCI5TIFIC7 AB\T ! PROCESSES ( ?IS OLD-FA%ION$ OR >TI/IC DYE+4 ,9 ! FIR/ PLACE1 ALL DYES MU/ BE SOLUBLE COLORS1 DIFF]+ 9 ?IS RESPECT FROM PIGM5TS2 MO/ ( :I* >E 9SOLUBLE1 & >E ONLY V]Y F9ELY DIVID$1 AS E4G41 ULTRAM>9E1 UMB]1 T]RE-V]TE4 ,NEXT1 DYES MAY BE DIVID$ 9TO ?OSE :I* NE$ A MORDANT & ?OSE :I* DO NOT2 OR1 AS ! OLD *EMI/ ,BANCR(T V]Y CONV5I5TLY EXPRESSES IT1 9TO ADJECTIVE & SUB/ANTIVE DYES4 ,9DIGO IS ! GREAT SUB/ANTIVE DYE3 ! 9DIGO HAS TO BE DEOXIDIZ$ & !REBY MADE SOLUBLE1 9 :I* /ATE IT LOSES ITS BLUE COLOR 9 PROPORTION AS ! SOLUTION IS COMPLETE2 ! GOODS >E PLUNG$ 9TO ?IS SOLUTION & WORK$ 9 IT ^*BETWE5 TWO WAT]S1' AS ! PHRASE GOES1 & :5 EXPOS$ TO ! AIR ! 9DIGO !Y HAVE GOT ON !M IS SWIFTLY OXIDIZ$1 & ONCE MORE BECOMES 9SOLUBLE4 ,?IS PROCESS IS REPEAT$ TILL ! REQUIR$ %ADE IS GOT4 ,ALL %ADES ( BLUE CAN BE GOT BY ?IS MEANS1 FROM ! PALE ^*WAT*ET1' AS \R =EFA!RS CALL$ IT1 UP TO ! BLUE :I* ! EIE SUB/ANTIVE DYES2 SOME ( ! YELL[S ALSO CAN BE DY$ )\T MORDANT1 BUT >E MU* IMPROV$ BY IT4 ,! R$ DYES1 K]MES & MADD]1 & ! YELL[ DYE WELD1 >E ESPECIALLY MORDANT OR ADJECTIVE DYES3 !Y >E ALL DY$ ON AN ALUM9\S BASIS4 ,TO PUT ! MATT] PLA9LY1 ! GOODS >E WORK$ 9 A SOLUTION ( ALUM 7USUALLY ) A LITTLE ACID ADD$71 & AFT] AN 9T]VAL ( A DAY OR TWO 7AG+7 >E DY$ 9 A BA? ( ! DISSOLV$ DYE-/UFF4 ,A LAKE IS ?US =M$ ON ! FIB] :I* IS 9 MO/ CASES V]Y DURABLE4 ,! EFFECT ( ?IS ^*MORDANT+' ( ! FIB] IS CLE>E/ SE5 9 ! MADD]+ ( PR9T$ COTTON GOODS1 :I* >E FIR/ PR9T$ ) ALUM9\S MORDANTS ( V>I\S DEGREES ( /R5G? 7OR ) IRON IF BLACK IS NE$$1 OR A MIXTURE ( IRON ) ALUM9A = PURPLE71 & !N DY$ :OLESALE 9 ! MADD]-BECK3 ! RESULT BE+ ?AT ! P>TS :I* HAVE BE5 MORDANT$ COME \R V>I\S %ADES ( R$1 ETC41 ACCORD+ TO ! /R5G? OR COMPOSITION ( ! MORDANT1 :ILE ! UNMORDANT$ P>TS REMA9 A DIRTY P9K1 :I* HAS TO BE ^*CLE>$' 9TO :ITE BY SOAP+ & EXPOSURE TO ! SUN & AIR2 :I* PROCESS BO? BRITS4 ,PL9Y SAW ?IS GO+ ON 9 ,EGYPT1 & IT PUZZL$ HIM V]Y MU*1 ?AT A CLO? DY$ 9 ONE COLOR %\LD COME \T COLOR$ DIV]SELY4 ,?AT REM9DS ME TO SAY A WORD ON ! FI%-DYE ( ! ANCI5TS3 IT WAS A SUB/ANTIVE DYE & BEHAV$ SOME:AT AS 9DIGO4 ,IT WAS V]Y P]MAN5T4 ,! COLOR WAS A REAL PURPLE 9 ! MOD]N S5SE ( ! WORD1 I4E4 A COLOR OR %ADES ( A COLOR BETWE5 R$ & BLUE4 ,! REAL ,BYZANT9E BOOKS :I* >E WRITT5 ON PURPLE VELLUM GIVE Y\ SOME1 AS LEA/1 ( ITS %ADES4 ,! ANCI5TS1 Y\ MU/ REMEMB]1 US$ WORDS = COLORS 9 A WAY ?AT SEEMS VAGUE TO US1 BECAUSE !Y W]E G5]ALLY ?9K+ ( ! TONE RA!R ?AN ! T9T4 ,:5 !Y WANT$ TO SPECIFY A R$ DYE !Y W\LD NOT USE ! WORD PURPUREUS1 BUT COCC9EUS1 I4E4 SC>LET ( K]MES4 ,! >T ( DYE+1 ,I AM B\ND TO SAY1 IS A DIFFICULT ONE1 NE$+ = ITS PRACTICE A GOOD CRAFTSMAN1 ) PL5TY ( EXP]I5CE4 ,MAT*+ A COLOR BY MEANS ( IT IS AN AGREEABLE BUT SOME:AT ANXI\S GAME TO PLAY4 ,AS TO ! >TI/IC VALUE ( !SE DYE-/UFFS1 MO/ ( :I*1 TOGE!R ) ! NECESS>Y MORDANT ALUM9A1 ! WORLD DISCOV]$ 9 E>LY TIMES 7,I MEAN E>LY HI/ORICAL TIMES71 ,I MU/ TELL Y\ ?AT !Y ALL MAKE 9 !IR SIMPLE/ =MS BEAUTIFUL COLORS2 !Y NE$ NO MUDDL+ 9TO >TI/IC USEFULNESS1 :5 Y\ NE$ Y\R COLORS BRIE NOT ET]NAL2 ! SUN 9 LIT K9DLY1 AS 7TO USE MY EXAMPLE = ! LA/ TIME 9 ?IS PAP]7 Y\ WILL SEE IF Y\ LOOK AT ! ,GO?IC TAPE/RIES 9 ! DRAW+-ROOM AT ,HAMPTON ,C\RT4 ,!SE COLORS 9 FAD+ /ILL REMA9 BEAUTIFUL1 & NEV]1 EV5 AFT] LONG WE>1 PASS 9TO NO?+NESS1 ?R\< ?AT /AGE ( LIVID UGL9ESS :I* DI/+UI%ES ! COMM]CIAL DYES AS NUISANCES1 EV5 MORE ?AN !IR %ORT & BY NO MEANS M]RY LIFE4 ,I MAY ALSO NOTE ?AT NO TEXTILES DY$ BLUE OR GRE51 O!RWISE ?AN BY 9DIGO1 KEEP AN AGREEABLE COLOR BY C&LE-LIE ALSO MU* DAMAG$ BY IT4 ,I EXCEPT FROM ?IS CONDEMNATION A COMM]CIAL GRE5 KN[N AS GAS-GRE51 :I* IS AS ABOM9ABLE AS ITS NAME1 BO? BY DAYLIT ( ,DYE+ ,DELIV]Y #b#i? ,OCTOB] #ahhi AT A MEET+ SPONSOR$ BY ! ,APPLI$ ,>T ,SECTION ( ! ,NATIONAL ,ASSOCIATION = ! ,ADVANCEM5T ( ,>T AT ! ,MUSEUM ( ,SCI5CE & ,>T1 ,$9BUR< ,PUBLICATION HI/ORY ,! ,DECORATOR & ,FURNI%]1 ,VOL4 #a#i1 ,NO4 #f1 ,M>* #ahib ,FROM 3 ,M>XI/S4ORG4 ,*RONOLOGY 3 ,FEBRU>Y #b#d1 #bba 3 ,! ,>T ( ,DYE+ -- ,ADD$4 ,JANU>Y #h1 #bbb 3 ,! ,>T ( ,DYE+ -- ,UPDAT$4 FILE G5]AT$ FROM 3 HTTP3_/_/REVOLTLIB4COM_/