,*APT] #bd 
,GULYAIPOLYE 

,PEOPLE 3 

,AU?OR 3 ,PET] ,GELD]LOOS 

,TEXT 3 

,GULYAIPOLYE 

,IT'S ,SUNDAY1 ! #b#bND ( ,OCTOB]1 WE'RE ON ! NI<T TRA9 \T ( ,KYIV1 & WE HAVE ! :OLE C\PE TO \RSELVES4 ,WE NEV] W\LD HAVE GUESS$ WE'D BE H]E :5 WE MET TWO MON?S E>LI] AT AN OLD SQUAT SMELL+ ( DOG PISS1 :]E WE COOK$ TOGE!R = ,GRATIS ,ET54  ,L HAS COME \T FROM ,N$]L& TO VISIT ME = A WEEK4  ,A /RANGE ADV5TURE1 CONSID]+ WE'VE ONLY KN[N EA* O!R = TWO WEEKS & !N TWO MON?S ( LETT]-WRIT+4 ,IT'S ALL ! BETT] = ITS /RANG5ESS4 ,9 SU* A LONELY WORLD IT'S DELI<TFUL TO DISCOV] SOMEONE :O IS MOV$ & ANG]$1 :O DREAMS ( ! SAME ?+S Y\ DO4 

,PRES5TLY1 IT'S NICE ?AT %E'S AS MU* ( A HI/ORY N]D AS ,I AM4 ,\R FIR/ DE/9ATION ON ?IS TRIP IS ,GULYAIPOLYE1 ! T[N 9 S\!RN ,UKRA9A ?AT WAS ! BIR?PLACE ( AN>*I/ ,NE/OR ,MAKHNO & ! C5T] ( A /ATELESS SOCIETY ( SEV5 MILLION PEOPLE :O F\<T = FRE$OM FROM ! ,G]MANS1 ! NATIONALI/S1 ! ,:ITE ,RUSSIANS1 & ! ,BOL%EVIKS 9 ! YE>S AFT] ,WORLD ,W> ,I4 ,! TRA9 DOESN'T GO ANY F>!R ?AN ,ZAPORIZHYE1 :I* US$ TO BE CALL$ ,ALEX&ROVSK & WAS ONE ( ! L>GE/ CITIES 9 ! AN>*I/ ZONE4 ,! MORN+ ( ! #b#cRD1 ! TRA9 CROSSES ! ,DNEPR1 & WE PE] AT H] MAP1 TRY+ TO PIECE TOGE!R \R R\TE ?R\< ! NI<T & \R PRES5T POSITION4  ,WE SP5D ! NEXT H\RS BE=E \R >RIVAL DEEP 9 CONV]SATION1 PASS+ FROM ! ,UKRA9IAN AN>*I/S ( ! LA/ C5TURY TO ! MOD]N-DAY REBELS 9 ,OAXACA1 ,MEXICO1 :O W]E FI<T+ AT ?AT V]Y MOM5T TO RECREATE !IR SOCIETY4 ,! REVOLUTION IS ALIVE6 ,WE PROMISE EA* O!R ?AT AS SOON AS WE CAN1 WE'LL TRAVEL TO ,MEXICO4 

,ZAPORIZHYE1 R5AM$ TO REFLECT ITS ,COSSACK P$IGREE1 IS GRIMY & PO/-,SOVIET1 & TREKK+ FROM ! TRA9 /ATION TO ! C5T] IS LIKE WALK+ FROM ,WE/ ,ASIA TO ,EUROPE2 FROM /REET-SIDE V5DORS LOCAT$ 9 LITTLE %ACKS OR SIMPLY /&+ ON ! CURB SELL+ FI%1 SODA1 & %O>MA1 TO CLO?+ %OPS & RE/AURANTS ) NEON SIGNS4  ,BETWE5 ! TRA9 /ATION & BUS /ATION ONE WALL IS PA9T$ ) A HUGE SWA/IKA4  ,! ,MAKHNOVI/S LIB]AT$ ! NE>BY CITY ( ,EKAT]9OSLAV1 N[ ,DNEPROPETROVSK1 SIMPLY BY DRESS+ 9 !IR PEASANT CLO!S1 RID+ 9 ON ! TRA9 PA/ ! 5EMY =TIFICATIONS1 CONGREGAT+ >\ND ! /RATEGIC PO9TS ( ! CITY1 & ?R[+ D[N4  ,! CITIES ON ! $GE ( ! T]RITORY *ANG$ H&S (T5 ) ! =TUNES ( W>1 BUT MU* ( S\!RN ,UKRA9A WAS /ATELESS & SELF-ORGANIZ+ = TWO YE>S4  ,!Y ORGANIZ$ WORK]S' & PEASANTS' SOVIETS -- C\NCILS -- & HELD P]IODIC ASSEMBLIES = ! 5TIRE REGION4  ,:5 ! AN>*I/S TOOK A NEW T[N OR CITY1 !Y DID NOT SET UP A NEW GOV]NM5T BUT ADVIS$ ! PEOPLE TO =M A C\NCIL & ORGANIZE !MSELVES4  ,SOME HI/ORIANS FAULT !M = ?IS1 AS A FEW CITIES /OPP$ FUNCTION+4  ,RA!R ?AN SELF-ORGANIZE1 !Y SIMPLY WAIT$ TO BE OCCUPI$ & DICTAT$ TO BY ! NEXT >MY4 

,9 ! >EAS :]E ! AN>*I/S HAD A MORE CONSI/5T PRES5CE1 PEOPLE R$I/RIBUT$ WEAL? & L&1 SET UP S*OOLS1 & PUT !MSELVES 9 CONTROL ( !IR [N LIVES4  ,ULTIMATELY ! AN>*I/S DI$ A SL[ DEA? AS ! ,BOL%EVIKS1 UND] COV] ( ALLIANCE ) ,MAKHNO'S >MY1 GRADUALLY CO-OPT$ ! FREE SOVIETS & EV5TUALLY >RE/$ & %OT ! AN>*I/S4  ,TROTSKY1 CYNICALLY QUE/ION+ ! LOYALTY ( ! AN>*I/S1 PRESSUR$ !M TO GO TO ! MO/ DANG]\S FRONTS 9 ! W> AGA9/ ! ,:ITE ,>MY -- ! MOTLEY =CE ( TS>I/S1 >I/OCRATS1 & REPUBLICANS ) BACK+ FROM ,FRANCE1 ,BRITA91 & ! ,U,S4  ,AFT] DEFEAT+ ,WRANGEL'S >MY 9 ,CRIMEA1 ONE ( ! /RONGE/ AN>*I/ FI<T+ UNITS WAS AMBU%$ BY !IR ]/:ILE ,R$ ,>MY ALLIES & M[$ D[N4 

,GULYAIPOLYE IS A DIFF]5T WORLD FROM GRUNGY ,ZAPORIZHYE4  ,TREE-L9$ /REETS1 S(T & RA9Y AIR1 :ITEWA%$ H\SES ) G>D5S & BLUE-PA9T$ %UTT]S1 ! S\ND ( *ICK5S & ! SMELL ( PIGS1 ROLL+ FIELDS 9 ! DI/ANCE4  ,GONE IS ! AGGRESSIV5ESS ( ! URBAN ,UKRA9IANS & !IR OV]T DISGU/ ) =EIGN]S -- = ! FIR/ TIME SOMEONE EV5 COMPLIM5TS ME ON MY ,RUSSIAN4  ,?AT NI<T ,L & ,I HUDDLE 9 H] SLEEP+ BAG1 SPLITT+ A BOTTLE ( W9E & TELL+ /ORIES4  ,! NEXT DAY1 WE'RE ! ONLY ONES 9 ! ,GULYAIPOLYE ,REGIONAL ,HI/ORY MUSEUM3 ! CURATOR TURNS ! LI<TS ON JU/ = US1 & PRATTLES MY E> (F AS ?\< ,I W]E FLU5T4  ,EV]Y N[ & !N ,I /OP H] TO TRANSLATE SOME?+ = ,L1 BUT MO/LY ,I JU/ SMILE1 SAY 0,DA1 DA1 KONYE%NA10 & PRET5D ,I UND]/&4  ,I LE>N ?AT ! DIRECTOR IS AN >D5T FAN ( ,RI*>D ,GE> & ,JULIA ,ROB]TS1 H] SON IS /UDY+ M$IC9E1 WE HAVE BEAUTIFUL SMIL+ FACES1 & AFT] GUESS+ ?AT IT WAS AN 9T]E/ 9 ,MAKHNO ?AT BR\<T US TO ! MUSEUM1 %E ALSO TELLS US !RE WAS A ,MAKHNO ,FE/IVAL 9 ,AUGU/ ?AT BR\<T MANY >TI/S1 WRIT]S1 & 9TELLECTUALS -- %E SAYS ) EYES RAIS$ SKYW>D -- & YES1 ALSO SOME AN>*I/S & DRUG-US]S4 

,F9ALLY WE'RE LEFT 9 PEACE TO EXPLORE ! MUSEUM1 ONE EXHIBIT ( :I* FOCUSES L>GELY ON ,MAKHNO1 FEATUR+ PHOTOGRAPHS1 NEWSPAP]S1 PO/]S1 BANN]S1 EV5 ONE ( ! MA*9E GUN-M\NT$ HORSE C>TS !Y US$ TO WREAK HAVOC ON ! MORE CUMB]SOME >MIES ( ! ,R$S & ,:ITES4  ,ONE BLACK BANN] ?AT US$ TO FLY 9 ! T[N C>RIES AN ESPECIALLY =CEFUL PHRASE3 0,OSVOBOZHDY5IYE RABO*IKH -- DYELO RUK SAMIKH RABO*IKH60  0,! LIB]ATION ( ! WORK]S IS A TASK = ! WORK]S !MSELVES60  ,! ,MAKHNO EXHIBIT1 & ! 5TIRE RE9TEGRATION ( ,MAKHNO 9TO ,UKRA9IAN HI/ORY AFT] ! ,L59I/ PURGES1 M9IMIZES OR ALTOGE!R OMITS HIS AN>*ISM1 PRES5T+ HIM 9/EAD AS A NATIONAL H]O4  ,?US1 ,L & ,I FEEL IT IS \R RESPONSIBILITY TO LEAVE AN>*I/ MESSAGES 9 F\R DIFF]5T LANGUAGES 9 ! MUSEUM GUE/ BOOK4 

,LAT] WE GO TO ,SEVA/OPOL1 ON ! ,BLACK ,SEA4  ,RUSSIAN SAILORS WALK ! CITY1 ON LEAVE FROM ! NAVAL BASE ,MOSC[ /ILL MA9TA9S H]E4  ,! >*ITECTURE SEEMS TO BE> A ,GREEK 9FLU5CE1 & ! ,GREEKS C]TA9LY LEFT !IR M>K ON ! NAME ( ! CITY4 ,IT'S A GOOD ?+ ?AT PEOPLE TRAVEL SO MU*1 ,I ?9K4 ,! WORLD W\LD BE A MORE BOR+ PLACE IF BORD]S W]E RESPECT$4 

,ON ! NI<T TRA9 BACK TO ,KYIV WE EA* HAVE TOP BUNKS4  ,! BOTTOM BUNKS >E OCCUPI$ BY TWO WOM5 :O >E MORE FLU5T 9 ! PAN-,SLAVIC NI<T TRA9 RITUAL4  ,!Y >E *ATT+ DUTIFULLY BESIDE !IR BAGS ( FOOD & SPECIAL SLIPP]S4  ,L & ,I >E %>+ ONE ( ! BUNKS1 SO WE CAN TALK AB\T \R UNC]TA9 FUTURE1 DRAFT FANCIFUL TRAVEL PLANS1 & PLAY HANGMAN ) PHRASES 9 ,RUSSIAN & ,N$]L&S4  ,:5 ! LI<TS GO \T & WE RETIRE TO \R SEP>ATE BUNKS1 ,I LIE BACK & ?9K AB\T LIFE4 

,FROM 3 ,!,AN>*I/,LIBR>Y4ORG4 

,*RONOLOGY 3 
,JANU>Y #b#a1 #bba 3 ,*APT] #bd -- ,ADD$4 

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